I've wanted some underhood lighting ever since I had the underside of my hood painted. The picture below is with four 1W Luxeons mounted to the underside of the hood. It's quite a bit of light.
I've yet to measure the current draw, but each Luxeon is about 1 watt. Assuming 80% efficiency in the driver module, I'm somewhere around 5 watts. It should never be a problem to leave these on for many hours on end, assuming a typical 70 amp-hour battery.
Due to the LED in the toggle switches being wired to ground and pin 3 on the toggle switch, I have to have +12V to the switches (the switches can't be used to switch ground unless I forget about using the LEDs). So I need a +12V source and ground to each of the switches. That's 2 wires into the DME compartment. I'd have 6 wires going out: hot and ground for each of the LED circuits. Put those in a 6-pole connector?
If I were going to order today, I'd order these from Mouser, which includes spares/supplies:
|794895-1||2||AMP Mini-Universal Sealed Connectors PLUG 6P|
|174670-1||6||AMP Universal MATE-N-LOK Connectors KEYING PLUG|
|794940-1||2||AMP Mini-Universal Sealed Connectors CAP 6P|
|770987-1||48||AMP Universal MATE-N-LOK Connectors PIN 22-18 AWG|
|770988-1||48||AMP Universal MATE-N-LOK Connectors SOCKET 22-18 BULK MINI UMNL|
|794758-1||96||AMP Universal MATE-N-LOK Connectors CAVITY WIRE SEAL|
|794995-1||96||AMP Universal MATE-N-LOK Connectors CAVITY PLUG SEAL|
|794772-6||6||AMP Mini-Universal Sealed Connectors INTERFACE SEAL 6P|
|189727-1||1||AMP Tools EXTRACTION TOOL|
|794894-1||6||AMP Mini-Universal Sealed Connectors PLUG 2P|
|794896-1||6||AMP Mini-Universal Sealed Connectors CAP 2P|
|794805-1||6||AMP Mini-Universal Sealed Connectors PLUG 4P|
|794939-1||6||AMP Mini-Universal Sealed Connectors CAP 4P|
|794772-2||6||AMP Mini-Universal Sealed Connectors INTERFACE SEAL 2P|
|794772-2||6||AMP Mini-Universal Sealed Connectors INTERFACE SEAL 4P|
For a grand total of about $96.00
|SBL 1W Luxeon package||1W Luxeon with driver in a sealed enclosure with mounting bracket||4||$19.95||$79.80|
|ALM-RB Accent Light Module||3-LED accent light (SUCKS, NOT USING IT)||1||$5.49||$5.49|
|HS3A-025FT||1/4" 3:1 double-wall heatshrink, black||6||$1.50||$9.00|
|HS3-050FT||1/2" 3:1 heatshrink, black||6||$1.45||$8.70|
|HS3A-0125FT||1/8" 3:1 double-wall heatshrink, black||6||$1.17||$7.02|
|HS3-025FT||1/4" 3:1 heatshrink, black||6||$1.15||$6.90|
|BSNY025||1/4" nylon braided sleeve||50||$0.27||$13.50|
|BSNY0125||1/8" nylon braided sleeve||50||$0.23||$11.50|
|VHB tape||3M VHB .120" 300F .75" x 15'||75935A29||1||$27.40||$27.40|
|fiberglass angle||2"x2" fiberglass angle, .125" thick, 3 feet'||8522K11||1||$20.75||$20.75|
|toggle switch||LED-tipped SPST 20A toggle witch||103-0004||5||$4.36||$21.80|
The APM hexseal boots will work on the LED-tipped toggle switches by just cutting the tip from the boot. It seals very snugly to the toggle shaft. I need to lubricate the shaft so the chromed cover doesn't get twisted while installing, else the LED wiring could be damaged.
Sigh, I spent a bunch of time making a long sleeved harness with a Powerlet connector on one of the Luxeon packages, only to have it roast the same as the red/orange one that roasted, as soon as I plugged it into power. It popped a 10A fuse. I'm growing very suspicious of the physical packaging of the SBL lights, and probably won't be buying any more of them. $20 isn't bad, unless you have to keep buying them. It's probably time for me to come up with my own package using K2's. I wish the LuxDrive drivers weren't so tall.
I ordered some LED-adorned ATC fuses from Waytek. The LED lights up when the fuse blows. I'm not sure they'll clear the fuse box lid, but they should. The bigger question: how much work to put a window in the fuse box lid, so I'll see it when the hood is open. The problem is the diagram on the back of the lid. Could Ron's engraver engrave the diagram on a piece of polycarbonate if I gave him the artwork?
I'm thinking about ordering some LED-adorned ATC fuses. I can get them from Waytek. The LED lights when the fuse blows. I'm not sure they'll clear the fuse box lid, but they should. The bigger question: how much work to put a window in the fuse box lid, so I'll see it when the hood is open.
BMW parts should be here Friday.
P/N Description Qty UnitPr Total 61.13.0.007.440 DOUBLE LEAF SPRING CONTACT 2.5MM 4 $2.18 $8.72 61.13.0.007.437 DOUBLE LEAF SPRING CONTACT 2.5MM 4 $2.18 $8.72 61.13.0.021.229 DOUBLE LEAF SPRING CONTACT 1.5-2.5mm 4 $2.18 $8.72 126.96.36.1997.591 TRIM PANEL FOOT CONTROLS 1 $28.32 $28.32 188.8.131.527.454 TRIM PANEL RIGHT 1 $21.75 $21.75 184.108.40.2063.055 INTERIOR LIGHT 1 $15.51 $15.51 TOTAL $91.74
I should also place my order at easternbeaver.com for the powerlet socket.
I went to the hardware today to get some decent ATM in-line fuse holders, ATM fuses (5A and 15A), and some 2-pole SAE connectors (found them in the trailer wiring section). I revised my wiring diagram so I don't use the hood switch, and hence only have 2 wires going into the e-box. The gray area represents the e-box.
I cut the hood light wiring to length, added braided sleeve, and heatshrinked the ends. I then crimped a ring terminal on the ground, with the ground that will go into the DME box. I didn't solder it, but folded extra strand back over the crimp and then used double-wall heatshrink. I soldered the positive connection to the hood lights, heatshrinked it, then used silicone self-fusing tape to wrap both connections together. It maeks it looks like they're all going to the ground terminal, but this was the best way for me to have wires that change direction and keep the amount of messy wiring outside of the e-box to a minimum.
I placed an order at Eastern Beaver for two Powerlet sockets, 4 plugs, and both right-angle and straight boots. One of the sockets I ordered was pre-wired for low-profile installation, which I'll probably use in the cabin (hopefully one of the kickpanels).
I also ordered a CTEK 3300 battery maintainer and a tire gauge (for the MINI). The CTEK 3300 is most of the reason for the powerlet socket under the hood. I'll be hacking the ring terminal connector, adding a longer lead with a powerlet plug. USPS tracking number 9101093549590002327269.
I just noticed that Eastwood now carries dry vinyl tape for harness wrapping, 1" wide. I should order some, along with some more of Mcmaster-Carr 7643A481 (1" wide self-fusing silicone tape).
So, inline ATM fuse holders, or something like the Centech FB-4 fusebox? The Centech would be nicer but I don't need all of the outputs, nor the space consumption.
I decided to install the toggle switch for the LED lighting in the lid of the e-box. I'll take pictures later, but it's in the side of the lid, not the top. I wanted it to be easy to find in the dark, and I can get power from the unoccupied pin on the B+ junction point in the e-box (used for the automatic transmission controller on cars with an automatic transmission).
I also popped out the blanks in a grommet of the e-box partition (the one closest the passenger side), and drilled a small hole in the corresponding grommet in the e-box. This lets me bring the positive connection for the LED lights into the e-box, as well as my own ground from the ground post on the strut tower.
I scotch-brited all the paint off of the Aircraft Spruce cockpit light. I used a gray roloc pad on the die grinder. Unfortunately I took off a bit of the anodizing in the process. But I plan to powdercoat it. I tested a piece of the wire in the oven, it will take 350F without problems. I know the PCB will handle those temperatures, so now I just need to cross my fingers that whatever is on the PCB (LEDs and resistors) will not be destroyed. But if it is, I'll wind up putting a Luxeon K2 emitter in the light. Can I get a BuckToot in there?
I played with mounting it on the driver side. There isn't sufficient clearance, it will hit the air filter cover before the hood closes, whether it's folded up or not. It looks like I won't be using these mounted under the hood, or I'll only be using one. At most I now only need 2 toggle switches, and 1 is probably sufficient.
I'm stil hemming and hawing over toggle switch mounting location and method.
The bummer is that the tolerances on the part are too close for a couple of coats of paint. The paint took damage when pivoting the light. I have a couple of options: strip the paint and leave it anodized, or take a bit of metal off and repaint or powdercoat. I want to powdercoat, but that means taking the PCB out and I suspect I'll have to destroy it to do it. It's glued in there very snugly.
I need to decide what to do about mounting the pair of toggle switches and a DIN power socket. I know I want the socket from easternbeaver.com.
However, they appear to just be selling the Powerlet stuff, which is available a lot of places. easternbeaver.com seems to have good options.
I heated the Aircraft Spruce light to soften the red Loctite, and removed the snapped-off remains of the #6-32 screw. No harm done. Yes, I'll be using blue Loctite, not red. :-)
The inner diameter of the Aircraft Spruce light is 16mm. No way to get a Luxeon Star in there. I might be able to get a Luxeon 1W emitter in there. I could get a K2 emitter in there.
I'm going to try fitting the aimable light on the driver side to check for clearance. I really like the function. I know it won't clear when it's extended. Will it clear when it's folded up?
I cut the ears off of three more SBL 1W Luxeon modules. Two of these are going under the hood. I painted them body color.
I started working a bit on wiring. I'm reducing the toggle switch count so I don't have to run as many wires to the hood. For now I'm going to use 2 toggle switches, one of which will turn on the 4 SBL Luxeon packages and is expected to be my primary underhood lighting. The second toggle will turn on the Aircraft Spruce aimables, which consume less power. Speaking of the Aircraft Spruce aimable, I need to order another one or two of them. Or ditch them.
I buttoned up most of the hood wiring. All of the Luxeons are wired. I wound up soldering some connections and heatshrinking them. I basically never have my hood apart, and it's not that big a deal to make a new wiring harness for the lighting. Some of what I'm doing now is experimental, I just want it to work for a little while so I can decide if it will all stay. I don't yet know if the Luxeon packages will hold up to underhood temperatures. I sure hope they do. The maximum operating temperature is 105C (221F), and the maximum junction temperature is 135C (275F). How long will they last?
Four 1W Luxeons is a lot of light under the hood. I definitely don't need more light. The two higher ones are aimed past the front of the engine compartment, which is useful for reading sockets, dipstick, etc. It'll also be nice at Homecoming for lighting our parking lot parties. :-)
I'll try to take some more in-progress pictures tomorrow.
I also mounted the toggle switches in a scrap piece of 90-degree fiberglass. I'm not very happy with the amount of effort to flip the toggles, which is of course related to their current rating. I should look for something smaller, I don't need 20A. Apem 3600NF are sealed, no LED.
There's no question that the neodymium magnet from McMaster-Carr is more than strong enough to hold one of the SBL brand Luxeon 1W packages to the hood or pretty much anything else containing iron. I don't know yet if the magnetic field is going to cause issues with the Luxeon package.
The 3-LED accent lights are ptetty useless under the hood. Not enough light, with a narrow viewing angle. they're not even sufficient for lighting the vinyl Roundel and ///M. Where would they be useful? Puddle lighting?
I ordered braided sleeve and heatshrink from cableorganizer.com.
I ordered a pair of 3-LED accent lights from superbrightleds.com
If I mount the toggle switches in the engine compartment using fiberglass angle, can I mount the fiberglass to the DME compartment wall with a single M8 nutsert? McMaster-Carr P/N 97467A693 (stainless steel) would be nice. Unfortunately I can't get my nutsert tool in there.
aircraftspruce.com has some interesting map lights here. Umm, the stud will fit in the holes that already exist in my hood. Can I get a wrench in there? Probably. Will they clear what's below? I don't know. Sure would be cool to have aimable lights though. Too bad they're $52.65 each. I ordered one anyway, to check it out.
steinair.com has an interesting eyeball cockpit light.
In any event, I've dremel'ed the ears off of a pair of the self-contained Luxeon 1W packages. The size is manageable and I think they'll look fine once I've painted them. I ordered some toggle switches from Mouser. Bigger than I really need, but they were less than $5 each, 20A current rating, and are LED-tipped. I also ordered 2 more SBL 1W Luxeon packages and a pair of bright white 194-based LEDs to try for license plate lighting (hoping to avoid modding the license plate light housings).
I ordered a .787" diameter .197" thick neodymium magnet from McMaster-Carr (5902K65). I also ordered two types of flexible magnetic strip, and .120" thick VHB tape that's good to 300F (75935A29). I also ordered a 6' length of 1/4" thick 2.75" x 3" 90-degree fiberglass to help me finish my amplifier cover.