I’m preparing to a do a full detail on the M roadster in preparation for the arrival of springtime. Given that my ragtop is 10 years old, it has faded a little bit.

I’m going to try using the Renovo black fabric soft top reviver kit to restore the color of the top. I’ll post before and after pictures here.

I’d like to put this debate to rest.

First of all, I’m not a professional detailer. My experiences are my own, on my own vehicles. By no means do I have the breadth of experience of a professional detailer.

But for my money… 303 Fabric Guard wins over RaggTopp fairly handily. Why?

First, let’s talk about protection. I’ve been applying protectant to the top of my M roadster as needed for over 10 years now. I’ve used both products, and have twice split them side-to-side (one product on the left half, the other on the right half). If I’ve seen any difference in protection, the 303 has been better. I don’t have a scientific explanation, and I have not taken pictures. However, even if we call this a tie…

303 Fabric Guard is less expensive. By a considerable margin. A 16 oz. spray bottle of RaggTop is around $20. You can buy 32 oz. of 303 Fabric Guard at that price; that’s half the price of the RaggTopp. And if you care about filling up your local landfill, you can buy 128 oz. refills of 303 Fabric Guard. I’ve never seen a RaggTopp refill. I know that some find the RaggTopp aerosol convenient, but I find it useless. The can has to be thrown out when empty, and to me it’s more difficult to use without getting overspray on your paint, glass and plastic window. Especially if you’re using it outdoors on anything but a completely calm day. 303 Fabric Guard can be applied with a paintbrush if you want complete control over its application, without ever buying a spray bottle.

Scent… maybe it’s just me, but I find RaggTopp fairly offensive to the nose. I’d never consider using it on fabric in the interior, but I don’t have a problem using 303 Fabric Guard on interior fabrics.

Availability… I’ve never seen RaggTopp locally. That means I have to pay shipping when I order it. I can find 303 Fabric Guard locally, which avoids the shipping costs.

Buy whatever suits your fancy, but for me 303 Fabric Guard is the right product for a fabric convertible top.

I’ve needed a new bench oscilloscope for quite some time, both for work-from-home activities and for my hobby activities. I have an old HP54501A, but the NVRAM died in it years ago. When I bought a replacement system board with new NVRAM, it continued to have problems. In addition, the sampling rate is abysmally slow, making to only useful for slow or very repetitive signals. It is essentially useless for glitch-hunting activities I’ve needed to perform in the last 2 years, forcing me to use one of the $20,000+ scopes in the lab at work on several occasions. The old Tektronix TDS460 on my desk at work isn’t even sufficient for some of the things I’ve needed to do.

I’ve looked at several of the dirt-cheap scopes. The Rigol units from the DS1102E upward, the Owon units, the lower-priced GW Instek units, etc. However, their updates rates are not good (the Owons are terrible at around 32 waveforms/sec), the build quality is poor (especially on the Rigols), and the firmware isn’t terribly robust. They are an incredible bang for the buck, especially for the casual hobbyist, but they are not tools I can count on to save me time (and hence money) for advanced hobby use and professional use. Of the units I’ve looked at, the only truly appealing ones are the Owons for their portability (battery is an option) and deep memory. They are essentially incapable of finding signal glitches due to their very low waveform capture rate; I’d only consider one for portable use on repetitive signals, or in cases where I need basic MSO capabilities for dirt cheap.

In 2011, Agilent released a series of game-changing oscilloscopes in the InfiniiVision 2000 and 3000 X-Series oscilloscopes. The big deal: a 50,000 waveform/sec capture rate thanks to an Agilent-designed ASIC, at a price point of $1200 for the base 70MHz model. The 3000 series (starting at around $2800) will do 1,000,000 waveforms/sec! These new oscilloscopes can find signal glitches at rates previously only attainable at a price point in excess of $5000, which is well beyond what can be justified if you’re not making money daily with your oscilloscope. The build quality is well above the Rigols, Owons and GW Insteks. The screen is an 8.5″ WVGA (800×480). And you can start with a base unit and purchase additional features as needed, many of them being only software license changes (the feature is already in the base model, it just needs to be unlocked via a license key).

I’ve essentially never needed a 4-channel scope, except when I need MSO or serial bus decoding features. So I’ll likely start with the DSOX2012A and later add the MSO option. The only things that have me considering the more expensive 3000 X-series: more triggering features, and a lot more upgrade options especially for bus decoding and triggering. And some of the upgrade options have more features than the 2000 X-series. For example, the waveform generator can do arbitrary waveforms whereas the 2000 can not.

I have an older Monster HTS 3500 that died some time ago. In the interest of not putting it in the landfill, I took it apart today to see what’s wrong.

One of the MOVs is toasted. It’s a Ceramate GNR20D201K. I can’t be sure, but I’m assuming a lightning strike or the like took it out. Don’t ask me why there isn’t a gas surge suppressor in here. Cheap construction would presumably be the answer, but I don’t have a schematic and don’t feel like digging too deep. I’ll replace the MOV and see what happens from there. I probably have some that I can scavenge, we’ll see.

Feb 8, 2012
I removed the burned MOV using my desoldering gun, and was about to replace it when I decided to check the thermal fuse that’s squeezed between the first two MOVs. It is open, so I need to replace it. It appears to be an SF139U, which as near as I can tell is no longer made. But it was 10A, 250V, 142 Celsius. I checked the other thermal fuses and they’re all good. I ordered new thermal fuses from Digi-Key, part number 317-1134-ND. I don’t have the same tape that Monster used to keep the MOVs near the thermal fuse. I’ll likely just use powdercoating tape since I know it’ll survive higher temperatures than the thermal fuse and I have some on-hand.

To make sure this would fix things, I shorted across the leads of the open fuse. Sure enough, the HTS 3500 comes to life and shows no errors. Hooray for some inexpensive troubleshooting and parts saving me a couple hundred dollars.

Feb 13, 2012
I replaced two MOVs and the thermal fuse, and all is well. I put the case back on and it’s ready to go back in the family room.

I’ve been looking for a 3″ random orbital sander for quite some time. For the most part, I want it for car detailing in the spots that are hard to get at with my larger random orbitals. I will occasionally use it for other purposes.

I want a pneumatic. There are several electric options, but I’ve never been a big fan of electric random orbitals for paint work. They’re big, heavy, and they have no love for water and dust. Sure, they are sometimes more convenient (don’t need an air compressor, cord is thinner than an air hose). But I’ve been using pneumatic random orbitals for more than a decade and I prefer them. They don’t get hot, they’re lightweight, and good ones run for a VERY long time with little to no maintenance.

Normally I would choose a Dynabrade and be done with it. The Dynabrade 21020 looks good, and can accept the Dynabrade 56087 pad. The Dynabrade 21020 is $210 to $300 online, and the Dynabrade 56087 pad is about $20 additional. At the moment it’s my top choice.

Another option is the 3M 20250, which comes with a Hook-It pad. I have no experience with 3M air tools, but I’m going to guess that this is a nice tool. And realistically, it’s not like I’m going to use it every day. It’s less costly than the Dynabrade, at about $150 online. It’s made in Taiwan, and I can’t seem to find reliable reviews of 3M pneumatic random orbitals.

Another option is the Ingersoll-Rand 3128K. It’s significantly cheaper at $108 online, but I have to admit that for detailing purposes, a pistol grip with trigger is crappy compared to the palm switch of the Dynabrade. Not to mention that my recent experiences with Ingersoll-Rand air tools haven’t made me as happy as Dynabrade. They’ve been offshoring many air tools and in some cases the quality has suffered. My 6″ Dynabrade pneumatic random orbital has been unbelievably reliable for 10 years. But then so has my Ingersoll-Rand right-angle die grinder.

I’ll make a decision soon. When I do, I’ll post pictures and impressions.

I’m also going to make a custom holder for the new sander and my 6″ random orbital. It will be similar to the VIM DAHLDR2-RED, but made to handle a 3″ sander and 6″ sander and leave lots of space for a buffing pad without touching anything on the pad. Then I can hang my sander on my detailing cart while I’m detailing without tainting the pad.

I’ve long been a fan of Bondhus hex keys. They’re stronger than any I’ve used, without being brittle. And their holders, while not as fancy as others like Wiha or even Wera, hold up very well long-term.

This week I received the Bondhus 20499 ProHold ball-end hex key set from Amazon. This is actually two sets: an inch set from .050″ to 3/8″ and a metric set from 1.5mm to 10mm.

The ProHold screw-holding mechanism on the ball end is a spring-loaded ball similar to that found on a ratchet. You can read more about it here. What I like about the ProHold versus Wiha’s MagicRing: it doesn’t scar the finish on the inside of the fastener head, and in my opinion it does not compromise the strength of the ball tip as much as the MagicRing. Of course I haven’t broken the tip of a ProHold or MagicRing hex driver, so this is speculation on my part.

As a bonus, the Bondhus ProHold are made here in the U.S.A., at least for now. I consider that a reasonable reason to buy them over the Wiha if you’re a U.S. resident.

Just a note on how I replace the grips on Snap-On Dual80 soft-grip ratchets…

The key is boiling water. It will not harm the grips or the ratchet. I boil a large pot of water on the stove, and place the new grip in it. I hold the old grip (still on the ratchet) in the boiling water for about 90 seconds. It will expand from the heat. I then pull the old grip off, while wearing mechanic’s gloves for better grip and to avoid being scalded. I pluck the new handle out of the pot of boiling water with tongs, shake the water out of it, then push it onto the ratchet (again wearing mechanic’s gloves). I make sure it’s positioned properly, then allow the ratchet to cool. Voila, a brand new grip! The process takes about 60 seconds, not counting the time for the water to boil.

Earlier this week, I received a new Snap-On FHLF80 ratchet. Like all the Snap-On Dual80 ratchets, it’s smooth and slender. It is a 3/8″ drive, long handle, flex-head model with soft grip. I prefer the soft grips due to the arthritis in my right hand.

It comes with a red soft-grip, which I replaced with an orange soft-grip (part number FH936-12O). Here’s a picture of it with the red grip:

And one with the orange grip:

And closeups of the red and orange grips:

One thing to note about the Snap-On soft-grips: the grips are slimmer than Matco soft-grips. This is a blessing and a curse. The Matco are more comfortable to me, but the Snap-On are slightly easier to fit between obstructions in a modern engine compartment. I haven’t taken the grip off of a Matco yet, but I suspect the shaft is thicker under the grip than the Snap-On. While I’d argue that’s good for strength, the reality is that I’ve never bent one of the Snap-On handles and warranty would cover it anyway.

I’m preparing to perform Inspection II on my 2002 BMW M roadster. One of the tasks is the valve clearance check and adjustment. One special tool is needed: BMW 83.30.0.493.743 (formerly 90.88.6.114.400), which I bought. This tool is a magnetic pickup tool for removing and replacing the valve shims which determine valve clearance. Without it, there is some risk of dropping a shim into no-mans land (one of the galleys leading to the crankcase) or into a cylinder if you’re a clumsy fool and also don’t plug the spark plug holes.

Another special tool, BMW 83.30.0.491.056 (formerly 90.88.6.115.100) is needed on some S54 engines, but I don’t think it’s needed on mine. It’s a tool that fits over 4 bolts on the crankshaft vibration damper, used in cooperation with a ratchet to turn the engine. From what I remember, my S54 is new enough that it has the hex nut on the end so I can just use a socket. I’ll know when I look again, but I bought the tool anyway since it’s better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it.

Finally, feeler gauges are needed. I’m not thrilled with the offering from BMW, they don’t offer the granularity I’d like or even the values I’d like without stacking. Hence I ordered some Eastern Industries feeler gauges from threadcheck.com, and have a quote request out for custom gauges in the range of interest: .15mm to .35mm in .01mm increments, 6″ long, with a 90 degree bend about 1″ from the business end.

Then there are the parts. The big expenditure is the valve shim kit, BMW 11.34.0.031.525. List price for this set is $466.46 as of today, but it can be found for about $375 on line. In addition, many gaskets are needed. The valve cover gasket (BMW 11.12.7.832.034, list price $47.27), thirteen of the valve cover nut grommets (BMW 11.12.7.830.972, list price $1.28 each), two valve cover seal washer grommets (BMW 11.12.1.437.395, list price $1.05 each) and six spark plug hole gaskets (BMW 11.12.7.831.271, list price $9.43 each).

I bought all of the parts plus the magnetic shim tool (BMW 83.30.0.493.743) mentioned above in a kit from ECS Tuning for $445.00. That’s a savings of about $180 versus list price.

January 19, 2012
I received the off-the-shelf Eastern Industries feeler gauge sets. Nothing out of the ordinary here, but I’m glad I bought them since my old ones were in pretty rough shape. I now have:

Eastern Industries FG-22-STEP step-ground

Eastern Industries FG-26-4-45 45-degree

Eastern Industries FG-25-3-SS stainless

Today I received a pair of Snap-On Instinct Hard Handle screwdrivers directly from Snap-On. That’s models SHD1O and SHDP22IRO. Both are orange. They’re $11.95 each, which is very steep for stubby screwdrivers.

I’m extremely disappointed. In four words: I should’ve bought Wiha.

The drivers arrived packaged very well. They were in a plastic bag, that bag was in a cardboard box, and the box was filled out with packing paper. No damage to the box whatsoever. But the drivers were severely scuffed, with ground-in black crap on the handles. Snap-On knowingly packed abused drivers and sent them to me. If they were $1 each, I probably wouldn’t complain. But they’re $11.95 each.

Worse, the tip on the SHD1O is junk. It looks as if someone smashed the end with a hammer and anvil. The thickness is far from consistent. I wonder if someone ran these drivers over with a forklift before shipping them to me.

To add salt to the wound, the SHD1O is not like what’s shown in pictures on the Snap-On web site. The picture on the web site shows a wide flat-tip blade, which is what I wanted:

I used to think that Snap-On’s quality control was very good. But these drivers didn’t come in a set: they were individually packed by hand, and hence there’s no reasonable excuse for shipping them to me. Now I get to waste my time having it corrected. And given the low quality of the handles even if they were pristine, I don’t want replacements. I want a refund so I can spend the money on Wiha 311 Series drivers.