Original Condition

This room was in reasonable condition but for the carpet. The room is roughly 13' by 12'1".

One odd thing about this room: there are seven electrical outlets. That's a lot for a room this size. Not sure what the builder's intent was, but it means I needed a lot of new wall plates.

My Fixes

I removed the carpet and padding, in preparation for hardwood. I patched and painted the room in Behr Peach Glow, eggshell sheen. I painted the ceiling white, also eggshell sheen.

I replaced the light fixture with a very thin LED fixture. I did this because the ceiling height is low and hence the old ceiling fixture was awkward. I don't expect to use it very much since this room is intended as a reading room and hence will have task lighting.

I fabricated a fold-down window sill for the window and attached it with wood screws and biscuit joinery. This will allow felines to sit comfortably in the window. I bought two new window screens since the screens were missing. I fabricated a window header with cove and classical profiles, a pair of rosettes and an applique. The side casing is now 3" wide fluted casings. I primed and sanded, but I'm still working on it.

I fabricated and installed a header for the door and closet doors with the same profiles as the window, but added a bead piece at the bottom. Same rosettes and applique as thr window. I installed fluted door casings and plinth blocks.

I installed solid hickory hardwood flooring from Great Lakes Hardwood. 3/4" x 3" size with microbevel edges.

I installed new baseboard and shoe moulding.

I created a new door threshold from solid hickory and plywood. This was routed with a roundover bit on the top edges and rabbeted to accomodate the hardwood flooring. The plywood was just for height, it's not visible. The edges of the threshold that are in the hallway are 1.5" solid oak. I cut the door jambs to accomodate the new threshold, unlike the original threshold that was hack work by a shoddy trim carpenter. The new threshold extends beyond the jambs in the hallway, which is correct for a room that's above the floor. This provides a landing for the plinth blocks and door casings.

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To-do

• Apply the second coat of paint to the baseboard and shoe moulding in the closet.

Wish List

Bedroom 3 Wish List by Vendor

www.homedepot.com

• Part	Description	P/N	Qty.	Unit Price	Total
  Kilz 10901	Kilz Original Primer, 1 gallon	10901	1	$15.98	$15.98
  Total					$15.98

www.amazon.com

• Part	Description	P/N	Qty.	Unit Price	Total
  Freeman PF18GLCN	18-gauge cleat flooring nailer	PF18GLCN	1	$214.99	$214.99
  Total					$214.99

Totals by Vendor

• Vendor	Total
  www.homedepot.com	$15.98
  www.amazon.com	$214.99
  Total	$230.97

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Bedroom 3 Purchases by Category

Tools

• Part	Description	P/N	Qty.	Unit Price	Total
  Hitachi EC99S	portable twin tank air compressor	EC99S	1	$199.00	$199.00
  Freeman PFL618BR	16-gauge 3-in-1 flooring nailer	PFL618BR	1	$159.00	$159.00
  Total					$358.00

Paint and primer

• Part	Description	P/N	Qty.	Unit Price	Total
  Behr 275001	Ultra Premium Plus Eggshell, pure white, 1 gallon	275001	2	$32.98	$65.96
  Behr #P240-2 Peach Glow eggshell paint	Ultra Premium Plus Eggshell, Peach Glow, 1 gallon		3	$32.98	$98.94
  Behr 7750 satin paint	Premium Plus Ultra satin, Ultra Pure White, 1 gallon	7750	1	$32.28	$32.28
  Kilz 10901	Kilz Original Primer, 1 gallon	10901	1	$15.98	$15.98
  DAP 18362	DAP 3.0 crystal clear silicon caulk, 9 oz.	18362	1	$7.48	$7.48
  Rust-Oleum 7791812	Satin white spray paint, 12 oz.	7791812	12	$3.88	$46.56
  DAP Alex Plus 18103 caulk, white	painter's caulk	18103	3	$1.96	$5.88
  Total					$273.08

Trim

• Part	Description	P/N	Qty.	Unit Price	Total
  EverTrue B 31212FBDPM	5.25" x 12' MDF baseboard	B 31212FBDPM	2	$22.44	$44.88
  Finished Elegance 10003316	1" x 8" x 8' MDF moulding board	10003316	6	$15.34	$92.04
  EverTrue B 3128FBDPM	5.25" x 8' MDF baseboard	B 3128FBDPM	5	$14.96	$74.80
  House of Fara 8583	3/4" x 3" x 8' MDF fluted casing	8583	8	$8.95	$71.60
  Ornamental Mouldings 3359PKWHW	7/32" x 9" x 2-7/16" birch acanthus applique	3359PKWHW	3	$4.99	$14.97
  House of Fara 8595	MDF shoe moulding	8595	10	$4.84	$48.40
  EverTrue EV742PBWHW	3.5" x 6" wood plinth block	EV742PBWHW	6	$3.10	$18.60
  House of Fara R10MDF	3.5" x 3.5" x 7/8" MDF rosette	R10MDF	6	$1.54	$9.24
  Total					$374.53

Flooring

• Part	Description	P/N	Qty.	Unit Price	Total
  Great Lakes Wood Floors 16034	3//4" x 3" hickory hardwood flooring, natural finish, 24 sq. ft. per carton	16034	9	$112.56	$1013.04
  FloorMuffler 0264049	4' x 25' x 0.08" polypropylene foam underlayment	0264049	2	$64.98	$129.96
  Signature Hardware 929071	4" x 10" antique style floor register, brushed nickel	929071	3	$34.95	$104.85
  Parks 130533	oil-based polyurethane for floors, semigloss, 1 gallon	130533	1	$25.98	$25.98
  Surewood-LNL 8430R-048-HD00L	48" x 11.5" x 1" red oak stair tread	8430R-048-HD00L	1	$24.92	$24.92
  Mastercraft 1049695	1" x 6" x 8' hickory board	1049695	1	$24.75	$24.75
  Bostitch FLN-200	2" flooring L-nail, 1000/box	FLN-200	4	$14.54	$58.16
  Loctite 1390595	PL Premium polyurethane construction adhesive, 10 fl. oz.	1390595	6	$4.24	$25.44
  Total					$1407.10

Window screens

• Part	Description	P/N	Qty.	Unit Price	Total
  Anderson CW4-1344034	24-15/16" x 43-17/32" casement insect screen	CW4-1344034	2	$29.00	$58.00
  Total					$58.00

Electrical

• Part	Description	P/N	Qty.	Unit Price	Total
  Commercial Electric 74032/HD	2'x2' edge-lit LED fixture, 4250 lumens	74032/HD	1	$99.97	$99.97
  Nest Protect S2001LW	Wired smoke and CO detector, white	S2001LW	1	$99.00	$99.00
  Lutron MSCL-OP153M-WH	Maestro occupancy-sensing dimmer, white	MSCL-OP153M-WH	1	$34.97	$34.97
  Leviton T5632-BW	Decora receptacle with USB charger, white	T5632-BW	2	$24.97	$49.94
  Leviton M24-05325-WMP	Decora outlets, 10-pack	M24-05325-WMP	1	$15.90	$15.90
  Legrand NTL885TRWCC6	Decora receptacle with LED nightlight, white	NTL885TRWCC6	1	$14.98	$14.98
  Brainerd W35312-SN-U	Simple Steps 1-gang satin nickel decorator wall plate	W35312-SN-U	10	$5.97	$59.70
  Total					$374.46

Hardware

• Part	Description	P/N	Qty.	Unit Price	Total
  Gatehouse L6X203B	Satin nickel universal passage door lever	L6X203B	1	$18.97	$18.97
  Gatehouse S841-517	Satin nickel 1/4" radius 3.5" mortise door hinge	S841-517	3	$2.78	$8.34
  Total					$27.31

Totals by Category

• Category	Total
  Tools	$358.00
  Paint and primer	$273.08
  Trim	$374.53
  Flooring	$1407.10
  Window screens	$58.00
  Electrical	$374.46
  Hardware	$27.31
  Total	$2872.48

---

Bedroom 3 Purchases by Date

July 10, 2014

• Part	Description	P/N	Qty.	Unit Price	Total
  Lutron MSCL-OP153M-WH	Maestro occupancy-sensing dimmer, white	MSCL-OP153M-WH	1	$34.97	$34.97
  Total					$34.97

November 14, 2015

• Part	Description	P/N	Qty.	Unit Price	Total
  Nest Protect S2001LW	Wired smoke and CO detector, white	S2001LW	1	$99.00	$99.00
  Total					$99.00

January 24, 2016

• Part	Description	P/N	Qty.	Unit Price	Total
  Freeman PFL618BR	16-gauge 3-in-1 flooring nailer	PFL618BR	1	$159.00	$159.00
  Bostitch FLN-200	2" flooring L-nail, 1000/box	FLN-200	4	$14.54	$58.16
  Total					$217.16

February 7, 2016

• Part	Description	P/N	Qty.	Unit Price	Total
  EverTrue B 31212FBDPM	5.25" x 12' MDF baseboard	B 31212FBDPM	2	$22.44	$44.88
  EverTrue B 3128FBDPM	5.25" x 8' MDF baseboard	B 3128FBDPM	5	$14.96	$74.80
  EverTrue EV742PBWHW	3.5" x 6" wood plinth block	EV742PBWHW	6	$3.10	$18.60
  Total					$138.28

March 8, 2016

• Part	Description	P/N	Qty.	Unit Price	Total
  Behr 275001	Ultra Premium Plus Eggshell, pure white, 1 gallon	275001	2	$32.98	$65.96
  Behr #P240-2 Peach Glow eggshell paint	Ultra Premium Plus Eggshell, Peach Glow, 1 gallon		3	$32.98	$98.94
  Total					$164.90

September 1, 2016

• Part	Description	P/N	Qty.	Unit Price	Total
  FloorMuffler 0264049	4' x 25' x 0.08" polypropylene foam underlayment	0264049	2	$64.98	$129.96
  Total					$129.96

September 4, 2016

• Part	Description	P/N	Qty.	Unit Price	Total
  Finished Elegance 10003316	1" x 8" x 8' MDF moulding board	10003316	6	$15.34	$92.04
  House of Fara 8583	3/4" x 3" x 8' MDF fluted casing	8583	8	$8.95	$71.60
  Ornamental Mouldings 3359PKWHW	7/32" x 9" x 2-7/16" birch acanthus applique	3359PKWHW	3	$4.99	$14.97
  Commercial Electric 74032/HD	2'x2' edge-lit LED fixture, 4250 lumens	74032/HD	1	$99.97	$99.97
  Leviton T5632-BW	Decora receptacle with USB charger, white	T5632-BW	2	$24.97	$49.94
  Leviton M24-05325-WMP	Decora outlets, 10-pack	M24-05325-WMP	1	$15.90	$15.90
  Brainerd W35312-SN-U	Simple Steps 1-gang satin nickel decorator wall plate	W35312-SN-U	10	$5.97	$59.70
  Total					$404.12

September 6, 2016

• Part	Description	P/N	Qty.	Unit Price	Total
  Anderson CW4-1344034	24-15/16" x 43-17/32" casement insect screen	CW4-1344034	2	$29.00	$58.00
  Total					$58.00

September 10, 2016

• Part	Description	P/N	Qty.	Unit Price	Total
  Great Lakes Wood Floors 16034	3//4" x 3" hickory hardwood flooring, natural finish, 24 sq. ft. per carton	16034	9	$112.56	$1013.04
  Mastercraft 1049695	1" x 6" x 8' hickory board	1049695	1	$24.75	$24.75
  Legrand NTL885TRWCC6	Decora receptacle with LED nightlight, white	NTL885TRWCC6	1	$14.98	$14.98
  Total					$1052.77

September 11, 2016

• Part	Description	P/N	Qty.	Unit Price	Total
  Signature Hardware 929071	4" x 10" antique style floor register, brushed nickel	929071	3	$34.95	$104.85
  Total					$104.85

September 16, 2016

• Part	Description	P/N	Qty.	Unit Price	Total
  Behr 7750 satin paint	Premium Plus Ultra satin, Ultra Pure White, 1 gallon	7750	1	$32.28	$32.28
  Surewood-LNL 8430R-048-HD00L	48" x 11.5" x 1" red oak stair tread	8430R-048-HD00L	1	$24.92	$24.92
  Total					$57.20

September 18, 2016

• Part	Description	P/N	Qty.	Unit Price	Total
  Hitachi EC99S	portable twin tank air compressor	EC99S	1	$199.00	$199.00
  DAP Alex Plus 18103 caulk, white	painter's caulk	18103	3	$1.96	$5.88
  House of Fara 8595	MDF shoe moulding	8595	10	$4.84	$48.40
  Parks 130533	oil-based polyurethane for floors, semigloss, 1 gallon	130533	1	$25.98	$25.98
  Total					$279.26

September 25, 2016

• Part	Description	P/N	Qty.	Unit Price	Total
  DAP 18362	DAP 3.0 crystal clear silicon caulk, 9 oz.	18362	1	$7.48	$7.48
  Rust-Oleum 7791812	Satin white spray paint, 12 oz.	7791812	12	$3.88	$46.56
  Gatehouse L6X203B	Satin nickel universal passage door lever	L6X203B	1	$18.97	$18.97
  Gatehouse S841-517	Satin nickel 1/4" radius 3.5" mortise door hinge	S841-517	3	$2.78	$8.34
  Total					$81.35

October 3, 2016

• Part	Description	P/N	Qty.	Unit Price	Total
  Loctite 1390595	PL Premium polyurethane construction adhesive, 10 fl. oz.	1390595	6	$4.24	$25.44
  Total					$25.44

Someday

• Part	Description	P/N	Qty.	Unit Price	Total
  Kilz 10901	Kilz Original Primer, 1 gallon	10901	1	$15.98	$15.98
  House of Fara R10MDF	3.5" x 3.5" x 7/8" MDF rosette	R10MDF	6	$1.54	$9.24
  Total					$25.22

Totals by Date

• Date	Total
  Jul 10, 2014	$34.97
  Nov 14, 2015	$99.00
  Jan 24, 2016	$217.16
  Feb 7, 2016	$138.28
  Mar 8, 2016	$164.90
  Sep 1, 2016	$129.96
  Sep 4, 2016	$404.12
  Sep 6, 2016	$58.00
  Sep 10, 2016	$1052.77
  Sep 11, 2016	$104.85
  Sep 16, 2016	$57.20
  Sep 18, 2016	$279.26
  Sep 25, 2016	$81.35
  Oct 3, 2016	$25.44
  Someday	$25.22
  Total	$2872.48

Bedroom 3 Diary

• December 23, 2016
  
  • I put the first coat of paint on the front of the second bi-fold closet door. Later I touched up a couple of spots with sandpaper and then sprayed the second coat. Finally, I later put the hardware back on and installed the door.

• December 22, 2016
  
  • I finished painting one of the closet bi-fold doors earlier this week, and it is now installed. Today I primed both halves of the second one, and spraypainted the backs and sides.

• December 17, 2016
  
  • I installed the Rockwood 403.15 door stop on the wall.

• December 11, 2016
  
  • I installed the door. The Rust-Oleum white is several shades darker than the trimwork, but I'm OK with it. It should be more robust since it's not water-based, and it'll be easier to clean. And it much way easier to spraypaint the door versus painting it with a brush.

• December 10, 2016
  
  • I sprayed a coat of paint on the door, both sides. Rust-Oleum satin white. The hallway side got 2 coats. The hallway side of the door is probably the only side that will ever be seen, since this room is being used as a reading room and not a bedroom. Hopefully I can hang the door tomorrow.

• December 4, 2016
  
  • I applied the second coat of paint to the door headers, casings, jambs and plinth blocks.

    I removed the hinges and knob from the door in preparation for patching and priming the room side of the door. I'm priming with Zinsser B-I-N to help prevent color bleed of the original stain. The second coat of primer might just be Kilz Original since it's cheaper.

• December 3, 2016
  
  • I put the first coat of paint on the door headers, casings, jambs and plinth blocks. I put the second coat of paint on the baseboard and shoe moulding between the door and the closet.

• December 2, 2016
  
  • I installed magnetic catches on the fold-down window sill extension. These will help prevent accidental release of the supports. I spaced them from the sill with some 3/8" thick acetal. This allows the acetal to act as a stop when hinging out the supports. The magnetic catches just keep them in position once they're hinged out. It works well, I shouldn't have any problem with pets or humans accidentally releasing the supports.

• November 29, 2016
  
  • I received some pieces of white acetal and some ball-detent latches to finish the supports for the fold-down window sill. I'm using acetal to allow the supports to slide easily into position; it's slippery but relatively hard and dimensionally stable. It's also easy to work with woodworking tools. I cut and routed the pieces that will act as the interface between the supports and the sill, and drilled countersunk holes and scewed them to the underside of the sill. Works perfectly.

    The ball-detent latches will keep the supports in position when the sill is in the raised position while still allowing the supports to be released when I want to fold the sill down.

    However, the latches get in the way of folding down the sill. I need to rethink this a bit. If I do similar work to another window sill, I'll want to extend the permanent part of the window sill further to accomodate mechanical latches. For this one I should probably consider magnetic catches.

• November 27, 2016
  
  • I primed the plinth blocks, casings, rosettes and header on the doorway. I also caulked the joints.

• November 26, 2016
  
  • I filled the nail holes in the plinth blocks, casings, rosettes and header on the hallway side of the door. I later sanded them.

• November 25, 2016
  
  • I cut and installed the plinth blocks, door casings, rosettes and door header on the hallway side of the door. Due to space constraints, the header is just a narrow flat piece.

    I installed the step using Loctite PL Premium and just a few 18 gauge nails to hold it in place while the adhesive cures. Hopefully I will not need to screw it down like the threshold.

    I installed the riser between the step and the threshold.

    I had to cut about 1/2" from the support brackets for the fold-down window sill and run them through the roundoff bit on the router table again. I then primed the new cuts and put another coat of paint on the brackets.

• November 19, 2016
  
  • I put the second coat of paint on the window header and window casings. I put the second coat of paint on the casings and header of the closet. I removed the tape around the window.

    Two of the tall bookshelves are now back in the room. They're ugly and not part of the long-term plan, but for now this is where they'll love. I also put the coffee table back in the room and sealed its slate pieces with 511 Impregnator.

    I installed the door threshold with Loctite PL Premium and 3 screws. I installed plugs in the screw holes, but will need to trim them off and sand them flush later.

• November 16, 2016
  
  • I put the first coat of paint on the window header and window casings. I put the second coat of paint on the window apron. I put the first coat of paint on the baseboard and shoe moulding in the closet.

    I put the short bookshelf in the room, and put the TV on top of it.

• November 15, 2016
  
  • I put the second coat of paint on the baseboard and shoe moulding, except the inside of the closet and the section between the door and the closet.

• November 14, 2016
  
  • I put the first coat of paint on the baseboard and shoe moulding, except the inside of the closet.

• November 13, 2016
  
  • It wasn't possible to use the existing phone cable as a pull cable for the new RG6 and cat5e runs to the third bedroom. It was apparently stapled in place before the roof and sheathing were done, since no one larger than a gnome would be able to reach the staple locations. Hence I had to find an alternate route...

    I wound up using a hole saw in the attic above the second floor to get access to the attic above the third bedroom. This wasn't easy; I had to balance on a roof truss 2x4 with my chest while using a 4.25" hole saw in my cordless drill.

    I then created a 6' feed stick from some oak stock, and put holes in each end. From the attic to the side of the third bedroom (which is tiny), I put my fish tape through one of the holes in the feed stick and a wire coat hanger through the hole in the other end. I then fed my fish tape between the roof sheathing and the ceiling joist of the third bedroom using the feed stick. I was then able to snag the fish tape from above the second floor through the hole I had cut with the hole saw. I was then able to pull the cat5e and RG6 into the attic adjacent the third bedroom, which is the wall in which I need the wiring. Yay! Of course this took me most of the day jungle-gyming in attic space, but it means the hard work is done.

    I installed the low voltage rework box in the wall for the coax and cat5e keystone connectors, pulled the cables through the box, terminated the cables with the connectors, inserted them into the 2-port keystone plate and installed the wall plate.

    I reinstalled the side attic access panel in the wall of the third bedroom closet.

    I connected the cat5e in the basement. I tested it with my network cable tester, it's working. I will connect the RG6 in the basement at a later date, after I have a better amplifier/splitter in my structured media box.

    I still need to finish the work for the Ubiquiti WiFi access point, which isn't really part of the bedroom work.

• November 12, 2016
  
  • I reinstalled the casement window cranks and then nailed the repaired finish pieces in place. Once I fill the nail holes, there will be no ecidence of the damage the previous owners had done to the windows.

    I put the first coat of paint on the window apron. I am preparing to paint all of the trim, but I want to install the door threshold first. I'm looking at that now.

    I need to run ethernet to the location where the TV will be located. I also need to relocate the coaxial cable. I'm not sure how the original coax was run. I glanced in the attic today, and that part of the attic isn't accessible from the attic above the second floor. Which leads me to believe that the original coaxial was run from below.

    I pulled two cat5e cables and an RG6 from the basement to the attic above the 2nd floor. One of the cat5e is yellow for PoE to the new Ubiquiti WiFi access point that Julie gave me for my birthday. I'm hoping to be able to run the other one and the RG6 into the third bedroom for the TV. Given the lack of access, it's likely that I'll need to use the old phone wire as a pull cable. Since I have no need for phone wiring in this room (or anywhere else in the house), it should be OK. Assuming the holes for it are big enough to accomodate an RG6 and cat5e cable...

    Jungle gyming in the attic was very difficult due to my injured thumb. I'm taking a break for now.

• November 11, 2016
  
  • All of the trim is taped off and caulked. I put the first coat of paint on the closet header and door casings. Tomorrow evening I'll try to get the first coat of paint on most of the trim. However, I can't do the door jambs until I decide how I'm going to install the new threshold (adhesive alone or adhesive plus fasteners). I haven't install the outside casings and plinth blocks since I need to install the threshold first.

• October 29, 2016
  
  • Still sick, but I put a second coat of primer on the door stops and jambs, and put 2 coats of paint on the parts of the window that required it to be open. I really needed to rest, but this might be the last warm day of the year.

• October 28, 2016
  
  • I'm sick, but I managed to install the oak door stops and get a coat of primer on them and the jambs.

• October 25, 2016
  
  • I sanded most of the trim, as well as the spots I filled in the door jambs. Tomorrow I hope to start preparing to prime by taping kraft paper to the floor and taping the walls.

• October 24, 2016
  
  • I'm almost done spackling the nail holes and gaps in the trim (baseboard, shoe moulding, door casings, etc.). I also put putty in the dents and gouges in the door jambs, as well as the gap at the door header. Some of the trim has been sanded. Tomorrow I'll sand some more and spot prime the areas that need it. I'll eventually finish sanding and apply the unifying coat of primer.

• October 20, 2016
  
  • I put the second coat of satin white spraypaint on the attic access panel. Once it was dry enough, I installed rubber weatherstripping on the back, which will be sandwiched against the drywall. I then installed it with four 2.5" long exterior screws, countersunk in the trim. It seems to be buttoned up tight, it shouldn't leak air and hopefully the insulation is sufficient. It's certainly much better than the original access panel.

• October 19, 2016
  
  • I filled the nail holes and gaps in the attic access panel, sanded lightly and then sprayed a coat of Kilz Original on it. After it dried, I sanded it lightly and put the first coat of paint on it (Rust-Oleum satin white spray). Tomorrow I'll put a second coat on it.

• October 18, 2016
  
  • I installed the last few pieces of shoe moulding, including the closet. Tomorrow I can start the slow process of filling nail holes and gaps in trim.

• October 17, 2016
  
  • I installed the last piece of baseboard outside of the closet. I also installed the remaining plinth block and door casing on the closet. All that remains for trim installation is one piece of shoe moulding ontside the closet and the shoe moulding inside the closet (if I choose to install it there).

• October 16, 2016
  
  • I went to Home Depot for a Cree 3-way LED light bulb for the floor lamp, a 75W-equivalent LED bulb for one of the table lamps, some weatherstripping for the attic access panel, and some aluminum flashing to use as paint splash protection when I paint the trim.

    I ordered a Systainer 2 to hold my squaring clamps. I also ordered a Starrett 505P-7 miter saw protractor.

    I installed the baseboard in the closet.

• October 15, 2016
  
  • I reinstalled the closet door hardware, then the doors just so I could make a judgement on the position of the door casings.

    I installed the plinth blocks and the door casings on the inside of the door.

    I installed more of the baseboard and shoe moulding. I also installed the left plinth block and door casing on the closet. I need to decide how to handle the trim in the cramped corner at the right side of the closet, and I also need to install baseboard and shoe moulding inside the closet.

• October 14, 2016
  
  • I cut some polyisocyanurate foam core insulation to install on the back of the attic access panel. I glued three layers of it together with 3M 90 spray adhesive. I then glued it to the back of the access panel.

    I finished the hickory flooring in the closet. It was very slow going since I can only effectively use one hand. But now I can remove tools from the room, clean the floor and finish installing baseboard, shoe moulding and door casing.

• October 12, 2016
  
  • I finished assembling a new attic access panel from plywood and some trim scraps. It fits, I'll prime and paint it later. I need to put some insulation on the back of it.

• October 11, 2016
  
  • Last night I picked up a new coping saw and some files at Home Depot. I am exhausted due to not being able to sleep well, so I probably won't do much today. I'm one-handed and can't use a mouse or trackball with my right hand, so I won't be updating here either. I wish the local pharmacies had my pain prescription. :-(

• October 10, 2016
  
  • I cut my thumb badly on the table saw late last night, and had to go to the ER for stitches. I am mostly out of commission as a result; I didn't get much sleep (throbbing pain), and I'm essentially one-handed for a bit. I did install the last of the flooring last night before this happened, except for the closet.

    Since I need to go out to fill prescriptions, I will pick up a few things I need at Home Depot. I need a new coping saw and some new files for coping the baseboard, and a piece of sanded plywood to replace the half-ass drywall access panel in the closet.

• October 9, 2016
  
  • I continue to install the hickory flooring. I'm hoping to finish late tonight. I'm working on the last few rows in the room, which I'm face-nailing. I'll then finish the closet.

    This flooring work has been brutal on my knees and the balls of my feet. I almost couldn't walk this morning. That's what happens when you spend 16 hours squatting.

• October 8, 2016
  
  • I now have 120 sq. ft. of the hickory flooring installed. The main reason it's going so slowly: I continue to glue the edges of the boards to each other, even though I'm nailing down the floor with 16-gauge cleats. All in the name of preventing squeaks in the future. The other reason is that I'm now running into the remaining obstacles: the closet and the two remaining HVAC ducts. Not to mention that I have to walk a long way to make my cuts since I don't want the sliding compound miter saw in the house. But I'm past the second heat duct now, so the only remaining obstacles are the third heat duct and the closet edges.

    I removed the closet door supports from the subfloor, since they were just blocks of pine and are visible from outside the doors. Once I run the hardwood over these two spots, I'll just mount the pivot brackets on the hardwood after drilling a pilot hole. The screws that hold the pivot brackets go all the way into the subfloor.

• October 7, 2016
  
  • I now have 81 sq. ft. of the hickory flooring installed.

• October 6, 2016
  
  • I now have 55 sq. ft. of the hickory flooring installed. That's a little over a third of the floor. I've racked 4 more rows, and also did a bit of trimming of one side of the door casing to accomodate the new threshold. The new threshold will fit fine, but I've yet to decide how to fasten it. I'm inclined to use countersunk screws and plugs, but we'll see.

• October 5, 2016
  
  • I installed a bit more of the hickory flooring. I'm not feeling well, so I didn't do much.

• October 4, 2016
  
  • I installed three more rows of the hickory flooring. These rows went around one of the heat ducts. I tested the fitment of the heat register, it's snug but good. I may need to shave off a bit later to accomodate wood movement.

• October 3, 2016
  
  • I stopped at Home Depot on the way home and bought 6 tubes of Loctite PL Premium 3X adhesive, 2 bottles of Titebond III wood glue and a box of 1000 flooring cleats (DeWalt brand). I wanted Bostitch cleats, but I couldn't find them in the store despite the web site saying they had some in stock.

    I am using the Loctite PL to glue the edges of the hardwood floor boards together as part of the nailing process. This adds work to my flooring task, but will help prevent squeaks and also lock together any invisible damage to tongues. I installed 2 more rows tonight using this technique.

• October 2, 2016
  
  • I finished laying the FloorMuffler underlayment. I hope it works well, since it's more difficult to work with than tar paper.

    I used #000 steel wool on the riser that will go underneath the threshold, then sprayed a coat of Minwax satin polyurethane on it.

    I cleaned up and assembled my straightedge so I can use it to lay the first row of hardwood flooring. I then installed a first row of boards after cutting their width for the expansion gap, face nailing and blind nailing with my finish nailer and 2" 6d finish nails. I then installed the second and third row by blind nailing with my finish nailer and sinking the nail heads with a nail set.

    I started racking the flooring, then nailed two rows with my new Freeman floor nailer. So far, so good.

    I'm debating whether or not to frame the floor heating registers. It's more work, but it would look nicer. I need to decide before I nail any more rows.

• October 1, 2016
  
  • I sanded the spackling around the step, and put a coat of Zinsser B-I-N on it just to seal it.

    I installed the hickory pieces on the step. To avoid visible face nailing, I predrilled holes for 16d finish nails at an angle in the same location on the tongues that my flooring nailer would hit. I then hand nailed these nails most of the way, then drove them just below the surface with a nail set.

    I cut the new riser to the correct height, then put a second coat of semigloss polyurethane on it. It will need steel wool after this coat, and then I'll spray on a final satin coat.

    I am almost ready to install the oak part of the step.

    I marked the location of the floor joists on the bottom of the wall, so I can hit them with cleats when installing the hardwood.

    I cleaned up the subfloor and layed about 75 percent of the FloorMuffler underlayment.

• September 29, 2016
  
  • I stopped at Home Depot for some 8d finish nails. I'll be using these to hand nail hardwood flooring where I don't want to use a nail gun. Pre-drilling and nailing by hand (with a nail set to finish) yields the best results when face-nailing hardwood.

    I put the first coat of polyurethane on the riser that will be installed below the threshold.

    I put some spackling on the holes over the step that were from the trim over the old step.

• September 27, 2016
  
  • I sanded and then mounted the new closet door entablature and put spackling compound in the nail dimples.

• September 26, 2016
  
  • I cut the end off of the new closet door entablature where it will meet the wall. Mostly the cornice, and a hair off of the beaded bottom piece of the header. I then sanded a tiny bit and put 2 coats of Zinsser B-I-N (shellac) on the unfinished parts. These are sealing/sanding coats, I'll sand it and install it later this week.

• September 25, 2016
  
  • I finished trimming the closet doors to fit the opening. Sigh, whoever did the trim carpentry in this room was a hack. The doors were too wide for the opening. The metal tabs at the bottom of the doors that are supposed to prevent wood-to-wood contact were bent to where they did nothing, and hence the doors had wood-to-wood contact. And the drywall on both sides of the door opening was chewed up by the door edges contacting it when the door was opened or closed. I didn't remove much from the doors; a thin kerf blade width on each edge with the table saw. This was enough to make the doors functional again.

    I went to Lowe's and bought new hinges for the door of bedroom 3. I also bought a new passage door lever set, a tube of clear caulk and 12 cans of satin white spray paint. I bought matching door lever sets for the remaining 2nd floor doors. One is a privacy lever set for Julie's bedroom.

    I installed three of the four new lever sets, just so I don't lose track of them and don't have more clutter around. The last one is for the bedroom I'm working on, and won't be installed until after I refinish the door.

    I used #000 steel wool on the oak step, then sprayed a coat of satin Minwax Fast-Drying poluyrethane on it. This should be the final coat, but I won't know until it's dry.

    Having trimmed the closet doors to the correct size, I was able to start measuring and planning for the casings and header trim. This is just so I can create the header before I start flooring. I think I can do the same thing I did above the door to the room, but the trim will have to end early on the right side since the wall is in the way. I made marks on the wall, measured, then cut and routed the pieces I need from MDF. I then glued and pin-nailed it together, minus the applique. The end that needs to be short isn't cut off yet, and none of it has been sanded and primed yet.

    I created the riser for the area below the door threshold. It's a piece of hickory running horizontally, with a 5.5" wide piece of oak edge-glued with #20 biscuits on each end to hide the end grain and keep the theme of mixing some oak with hickory. It still needs to be cut to the correct height, which I'll do on the table saw when the time comes.

• September 24, 2016
  
  • I ordered a Festool Systainer SYS 1 to hold the Arrow PT50 stapler and staples.

    I cut 1/8" off one side of one of the closet doors. I need to do the same on the other door, and probably do the same on the other edges. The doors are too wide for the closet doorway. They press hard against each other (wood to wood instead of just the springs), and the right one shaved away some drywall before I bought the house.

    I put the final coat of semigloss polyurethane on the oak step. I'll rub it out and spray a coat of satin on it tomorrow.

    I chiseled away about 3/4" width of the threshold subfloor, about 3/32" deep. It was not flush with the subfloor, and this was a problem for installing the hardwood flooring which I'll be running about 1/2" under the final threshold piece. I also lightly sanded the top of the thrshold subfloor, mostly to get a clean, flat surface. I'll be using a bit of Loctite PL 3X adhesive in addition to nails to attach the new threshold.

• September 23, 2016
  
  • I bought an Arrow PT50 pneumatic T50 stapler at Lowe's. I need this to staple down the FloorMuffler underlayment, and will need it later for similar tasks. I bought a few different lengths of staples.

• September 22, 2016
  
  • In the morning, I lightly sanded the first coat of polyurethane on the new threshold, then brushed on a second coat (semi-gloss, Parks Floor Finish).

    In the evening I used #000 steel wool on the threshold, then sprayed on a coat of satin polyurethane (Minwax fast-drying). I expect to apply at least one more coat. The first two coats of semi-gloss were mostly used as sanding sealer.

• September 21, 2016
  
  • I shaved a bit off of the new threshold to make for better fitment. I also cut the rabbet along the edge that will overlap the hardwood floor, using one of my stacked dado sets in the table saw. I then sanded the whole threshold and applied the first coat of polyurethane.

• September 20, 2016
  
  • I bought new door stop trim at Home Depot. Even though I'll be painting it, I bought oak for durability.

    I cut the newly assembled threshold to fit the doorway. I tested the fitment. It fits but needs 1/8" shaved off on each end. I'll do that tomorrow. I also need to cut the rabbet in the edge and run a roundoff bit along the top lengthwise edges.

    I need to buy more plinth blocks. EV742PBWHW from Lowe's.

• September 19, 2016
  
  • I cut the pieces of hickory flooring for the step and tested the fitment. It fits.

    I finished assembling the threshold.

• September 18, 2016
  
  • I put a second coat of polyurethane on the new step.

    I went to Lowe's and Home Depot. I bought a new Hitachi EC99S portable air compressor, since I need one for installing hardwood flooring. I had originally planned to use my main compressor in the garage, but it's a hassle to run back and forth to adjust the regulator and leaving the door to the garage open at this time of year is equivalent to putting a "Welcome, field mice!" sign on my door.

    I also bought polyurethane, paint brushes for trim, shoe moulding and a set of lamps and LED bulbs for this room.

    I sanded the patched nail holes of the door header.

    I carefully removed the door casings on the hallway side of the door, then pulled all of the remaining nails. I also removed the crumbling drywall that was behind one of the stair risers. Not sure who the genius was that thought part of the door threshold could be supported by drywall! I replaced it with scrap 1/2" birch plywood I had on hand, fastened with 1-5/8" Torx head deck screws. I then cut the left and right door jambs at the height required for the new door threshold I'm creating, using my ryouba saw.

    I slotted the new step to accept the tongue of the new hickory hardwood. The step is 1" thick, so I need a piece of 1/4" plywood to bring the hardwood level with the step. I cut this piece of plywood and stapled it in place. I then checked that my plan will work. I'm good to go here once I cut and install the hickory pieces.

• September 17, 2016
  
  • I nailed the new header assembly above the door and put some spackling compound in the nail holes. I haven't attached the applique yet, I'll do that after I sand the spackling compound.

    I started working on the door threshold. I removed the old threshold as well as the fascia below it. Sigh, whoever did this work was a hack. I will of course make it right. I glued and pin nailed a hickory 1x6 to 1/2" plywood, and will use this as my threshold. It will be edged with a piece of 1x2 oak, and rabbetted to allow it to overlap the hardwood flooring. The new fascia will be oak, and will be properly centered (unlike the original one).

    The reason this threshold is important: it's also a step. The floor of this room is about 12" above the floor of the hallway.

    I removed the carpeting, tack strips, padding and stapes from the single step between the hallway and the threshold. I also removed the 2x2 piece of overhang that had been glued and screwed to the step. I scraped the glue (construction adhesive) off with a wood chisel. I will be installing an oak stair tread and hardwood to replace the carpet.

    I cut the oak stair tread to replace the carpeted step. It was tricky but it's done. I also sanded out the planer marks. I need to put polyurethane on it.

    Late tonight, I will try to finish assembling the threshold.

• September 14, 2016
  
  • I put 2 coats of B-I-N on the header I fabricated for the door. Just the parts that had been cut with the table saw and routed. These are my initial sanding coats. I'll do some of the initial sanding tomorrow if I don't decide to start creating the head trim for the closet.

• September 13, 2016
  
  • I started fabricating the header for the door. It's basically the same as the header I created for the window, except it has a 3/4" bead piece at the bottom. Total stack height is approximately 5.75": the 3/4" bead, a 3.5" entablature and a 1.5" cornice All of the cutting and routing is done, and I glued and pin nailed it together except for the applique. It needs sanding and a couple of coats of B-I-N primer on the exposed MDF.

    This isn't the typical process for creating door trim. I want to do as much of the finish work as I can before nailing it in place because I've already painted the walls. Doing it this way also allows for perfect returns. They're actually not returns at all; the beaded piece and both pieces of the cornice are slabs of MDF that I cut and routed. Hence the cornice is two pieces of MDF instead of six, and the beaded part is one piece of MDF instead of three. Creating this on the wall would be more difficult. Doing it on the bench allows me to glue and pin nail it precisely, and attaching it to the wall only involves driving finish nails through the entablature.

• September 10, 2016
  
  • I finished the repair of the sill trim piece in the window. It had a huge chunk broken out of it by the previous owners. Anderson doesn't show this piece as available for purchase, and it is a fairly complex piece to replicate. So instead of creating a new piece, I cut out the bad part and fabricated a replacement from poplar which is glued into place with Titebond III wood glue. It fits perfectly, so I primed and sanded it until I could not tell where it had been repaired. It is now in placed but not nailed in yet.

    I primed the fold-down windowsill with Zinsser B-I-N. This will prevent tanins from leeching into the final finish.

    I used Rock Hard Water Putty to level the seam between the hinged sill mount and the sill. Once it dries, I'll sand and prime this area.

    I replaced all of the wall outlets with Decora style outlets. Two of them are Leviton T5632-BW with USB charging ports. One is a Legrand NTL885TRWCC6 with adjustable LED nightlight.

    I bought the flooring at Menards. It's 3/4" x 3" solid hickory with a natural finish. It's 16034 from Great Lakes Wood Floors and is made in the U.S.A.

• September 9, 2016
  
  • I bought a quart of Behr Premium Plus Ultra pure white semi-gloss paint, Floetrol, a Wooster Pro brush for gloss, Kilz Original spray, and two tubes of DAP 3.0 white caulk on my way home from work. This is for priming and painting the window trim and fold-down sill. I forgot to buy a gallon can of Kilz Original primer.

• September 4, 2016
  
  • I finished creating and installing the fold-out window sill in the 3rd bedroom. This will allow felines to sit on the window sill comfortably. Since I need support below, the trim doesn't have classic proportions; the apron is taller than usual. I created the apron from a piece of solid poplar. The fold-out sill extension is all solid oak. It is glued, screwed and biscuited to the window sill and the folding part is connected with a piano hinge (46 screws). I routed the edge of the fold-out sill wiht a cove bit.

    The cross head was created with MDF cut to 3.5" height, with an applique in the center and 3.5" rosettes on each end. There are two pieces of MDF on top of it, one routed with a cove bit and the other routed with a Rockler classical bit. The whole thing (minus the rosettes) was assembled on my bench before installation with glue and my pin nailer. This is easier than creating return pieces, since I was just routing rectangular pieces on 3 edges. I installed the cross head above the window.

    I bought 3" wide fluted MDF case moulding and installed it on the sides of the windows. This wasn't my original plan, but the original moulding I bought just didn't look right with a cross head or the rosettes. I needed symmetrical casing, and the fluted MDF fits the bill. It's also inespensive and very easy to cut and install. I sealed the back and ends of it with Zinsser B-I-N before installation, just to help prevent moisture intrusion.

    This bedroom has a short ceiling height, which makes the existing light fixture awkward. Someone more than 6' tall would be ducking to avoid it. I bought a 24" square LED light panel to replace it. It's not pretty, but I believe I can put a routed wood frame around it to make it look nicer. I installed it as-is. This room won't normally be lit from overhead since it's intended as a reading room, so it was more important to have a low-profile fixture.

• March 8, 2016
  
  • There are now two coats of paint on the ceiling of the third bedroom. I should be able to tape and paint the walls this weekend. The paint color I chose is Behr "Peach Glow". On the wall, it's a little bolder than I planned. But it's a happy color and I like it.

• February 6, 2016
  
  • I wiped down the walls, removed my tools and other items, broke up all of the old trim and put it in a box for the fire pit, and also boxed the old carpet tack strips.

    I removed the original window sill extension. It was not as long or deep as I'd like, and was also not installed very well. But to use a deeper one, I can't use nails as were used for the original. I ordered a Porter-Cable 557 biscuit jointer so I can use glue and biscuits to attach one I'll make from oak. It will probably be about 1" deeper and about 1" wider. This will accomodate the slightly wider window casing I would like to use.

    I primed most of the walls with Kilz Original. I have about half of one wall remaining. I used a full gallon. The objective here was just to seal and cover the blue paint that was on the walls so it doesn't bleed through to my new color. Primer is much less expensive than the paint I intend to use, so if it saves me a coat of paint, it's a win. And being oil-based, the Kilz should seal up all of my patching very nicely.

• January 31, 2016
  
  • I went to Lowe's in the new truck to get some small items. Paint tray liners, garbage bags and a new joint compound mud pan. Part of the reason for this trip was to gauge what my fuel mileage looks like around town when driving with slow throttle inputs. I got roughly 23 mpg, which is better than I expected. Of course it will drop if I'm driving to keep up with everyone in terms of acceleration.

• January 30, 2016
  
  • I continued sanding and spackling in the small bedroom. I had to cut out some areas of the original joint compound where nails had caused highly visible bumps, then spackle those spots.

• January 27, 2016
  
  • The Freeman PFL618BR flooring nailer arrived from Amazon. I'm glad I ordered a nailer with a case. It's so big that it won't fit in any Systainer, including a Systainer Maxi. The case is the size of a suitcase!

• January 26, 2016
  
  • I stopped at Home Depot and bought a 36" x 11.5" oak stair tread. I was going to try to use this to replace the hokey, incorrectly cut threshold. However, when I got home I realized I need the 48" length. Serves me right for not measuring.

    I started sanding the spackling I did the other day.

    The 16 gauge cleats for the floor nailer arrived, along with the Systainer for my 1/4 sheet sanders. So nice to finally have a case for them. My old Porter-Cable's cardboard box had crumbled apart, and the new Bosch's cardboard box was way too flimsy as a case.

• January 24, 2016
  
  • I started spackling the walls in the third bedroom.

    I ordered a Freeman PFL618BR flooring nailer from Amazon. This is a 16-gauge nailer, hopefully it will work with 3/4" hickory without splitting the tongues. I'll be using 16-gauge Bostitch cleats to install the floor. I ordered 4000 cleats, which is more than I need for this room but they'll get used since I intend to install more hardwood flooring once this room is done.

    I also ordered a Systainer 2 for my 1/4 sheet sanders since neither of them has a case. And a Systainer Midi II for my router bits; they don't all fit in the Systainer 1 I've been using. The Systainer 1 that I'm currently using for router bits will be reassigned to hold my Porter-Cable PIN138 pin nailer and nails. I printed the labels cards for the new Systainers and sprayed them with lacquer. I'll cut them out later.

• January 23, 2016
  
  • I removed the door casing from the door, door casing from the closet, and the window casing. They were all slopped with blue paint, and it's less work to install new than to deal with the paint slop. The door casings needed to come off anyway for the floor installation and the installation of a real threshold piece. The existing threshold piece was a horrible hack, probably not done by a finish carpenter. Big gaps, it doesn't go under the door casing, etc. What's really needed here is a stair tread type of piece since there are two steps into this room.

    I repaired the window trim that covers the window cranks, at least as best I could. One of them has a large chunk missing, but at least now it's back in place. The repair involved bending the beams from the crank to the window back into shape, and removing and replacing the trim pieces. I haven't renailed them into place because I'm probably going to sand and refinish them before putting them back.

    I sharpened a 1.5" wood chisel and used it to scrape the paint and caulk ridges from where the edges of the baseboard, door casings and window casing met the sheetrock. I also pulled all of the nails out of the old baseboard and casings so I can burn it and so I don't wind up with a nail in a foot or hand.

• January 17, 2016
  
  • I removed the old base moulding. It was a slow process since I wanted to avoid trashing the drywall. I still need to remove the door casings. That will allow me to start spackling and other patchwork. I might be able to be ready for paint by next weekend.

    I need to decide on the millwork for this room. I'm probably going to use plinth blocks and rosettes, mostly to avoid hassles with miter cuts in what's not a completely square room.

• January 16, 2016
  
  • I started the remodelling of Bedroom 3. I removed all of the books from the freestanding bookshelves, then moved the bookshelves and all other furniture out of the room. I then removed and bundled all of the carpet, in roughly 30" wide rolls. I then removed the carpet pad, then the tack strips. finally, I removed the carpet pad staples.

    I will eventually apply a coat or two of Zinsser B-I-N to the subfloor to kill odors from the previous owners. But I won't be doing that until I'm done with the walls. I need to remove the baseboard and door casings, which are thrashed so I'll be buying new. Not to mention that whoever painted this room did a poor job; the door casings are slopped with paint, and the paint lines on the arched ceiling are far from straight and clean.

• January 13, 2016
  
  • I'm starting to figure out what I need for the third upstairs bedroom, which will be a reading room and guest bedroom. Since I intend to install a hickory hardwood floor, I need an 18-gauge floor cleat nailer. I put the one I want on my Amazon wish list.

• November 14, 2015
  
  • I installed my second Nest Protect outside of the third bedroom. It's hardwired and named protectb3. I updated DNS and DHCP configurations.

    I am aware that new construction in Michigan requires smoke alarms in every sleeping room. However, I have no wiring for smoke alarms in these rooms, and I've never closed a bedroom door for sleeping. Not to mention that I'd have to spend an additional $400 plus tax to put one in every bedroom, and in the master bedroom there isn't a good spot since the double door to the master bathroom is close to the master bedroom entry door.

    The 2009 Michigan Residential Code also requires smoke alarms to be interconnected and to receive primary power from building wiring. Right now, I don't have that option in the kitchen noe outside Bedroom 2. It's not too difficult to provide it for Bedroom 2 since there is attic above. And a strict reading of the code says I have to make this change if I ever sell the house. But in the kitchen, I don't have good options until a remodel involving removal of the drywall.

• November 12, 2015
  
  • I'm preparing to refinish the third bedroom. Mostly planning at this stage. Hardwood flooring, paint, new oak trim. The room is roughly 13' x 12', so I need about 180 square feet of hardwood (accounting for scrap). This will probably be the room where I start the long process of painting trim and doors, but I haven't committed to that yet. I like stained oak trim, for the natural beauty and of course the dent resistance. But the existing sold wood doors have some deep scars form the previous owners. Presumably from dogs. The cheap and easy fix is to fill and paint. The best fix would be to replace the doors. Something in between would be nice... General Finishes gel stain comes to mind, in a dark color like Java.

• July 29, 2014
  
  • More time cleaning carpet in this room. Days ago I realized that the stains I'm trying to remove are actually in the pad, which is why they keep returning. I need to end the obsession since I'm clearly not going to get things clean without replacing the pad, which I'm not going to do. If I pull up the carpet, I'm definitely not putting it back.

• July 27, 2014
  
  • I spent another 5 hours or so cleaning the carpet in the small bedroom. Apparently it's become an obsession. But I did make some progress today. I used Oxy Clean powder on my hands and knees, which worked better than other solutions. I think the key wasn't so much the Oxy Clean as the ability to really wring the solution out of the carpet when I'm using the hand tool. I can put a tremendous amount of pressure on the tool, which squishes the solution out of the carpet. While the big stain isn't completely gone, I continued to get dirty water in the waste container and the stain is definitely lighter.

• July 26, 2014
  
  • I took another small pass at cleaning the carpet in bedroom 3. I had to perform some repairs on my carpet cleaner first, since it was leaking the clean water/shampoo like a sieve. It's working fine now, but the capret in this bedroom didn't get much cleaner.

    I also did a little bit of carpet cleaning on the second floor hallway, and did som moe cleaning of a spot in bedroom 1.

• July 12, 2014
  
  • I spent another hour cleaning the carpet in the third bedroom on the second floor. It wasn't very fruitful, the stains won't come out. Not a huge issue, this might be the first room where I install hardwood flooring.

• July 10, 2014
  
  • I picked up a Lutron Maestro MSCL-OP153M-WH occupancy-sensing dimmer at Home Depot for the smallest second floor bedroom. It is now installed. Initially the dimming misbehaved, but it was due to the bulbs in the fixture (non-dimmable CFL). I replaced the bulbs with Cree 60W equivalent LED bulbs and all is well. These bulbs came from the kitchen island light, whose bulbs were today replaced with Cree TW series bulbs.