Parts

• Alarm harness
  • Shell: 61 13 1 378 138
  • Pins: 61 13 1 376 193 (male), 61 13 1 376 204 (female)
  • I need 12 female pins to fill the shell. The chassis connector is male, the plug from the alarm (61 13 1 378 138) is female.
• Siren harness
  • Connector: 61 12 1 382 263
  • Tailed pins: 61 13 0 007 444
  • I need two of the tailed pins.

Connecting the Alarm Module to the Car Alarm Harness

• Below is a diagram of the X13025 connector, taken from 8100.0-02 in the ETM. This is the connector on the car harness, which I'll mate with 61 13 1 378 138.

  

  The pinout of the X13025 connector, found via several diagrams in the ETM:

  • Pin #	Function
    1	hot-at-all-times
    2	ignition 12VDC
    3	chassis ground
    4	(-) driver's door trigger
    5	(-) passenger's door
    6	(-) rear door trigger (not applicable)
    7	(+) siren
    8	(+) parking lights
    9	(+) lock (positive pulse)
    10	(+) unlock (positive pulse)
    11	(-) trunk trigger
    12	supervised dome lighting?

  This gives us the basic triggers, power, lock and unlock, and parking light feedback. The horn trigger presumably signals the harness for the alarm siren under the hood, which I should be able to use for the CompuStar siren if that's what I choose to install (the alternative is to buy a factory one, P/N 65 73 9 416 245).

  Hood Trigger

  • Connector X10244 in the ETM should be taped to the same area as connector X13025 (behind the glove box). IT's a 1-pin black connector. This is the signal from both the hood switch and the radio anti-theft switch.

    

    The ETM shows connector X371 as the hood switch connector. It has pin 1 connected to ground, and pin 2 wired to pin 1 in X10244. This trigger is in parallel to the radio anti-theft switch.

    

  Foot Brake

  • Pin 2 on connector X78 (blue/red) should be wired to connector 3 pin 3 (light blue/white) on the alarm. This will let the alarm lock the doors the first time the brake is depressed after the car is started. This is a thin wire; I'm note sure I have a Scotch-lock that's small enough.

    

  Wiring Table

  • Car Connector/Pin	Alarm Connector/Pin	Description
    X13025 / 1 (red/yellow)	1 / 1 (red)	hot-at-all-times
    X13025 / 1 (red/yellow)	1 / 3 (red/white)	hot-at-all-times
    X13025 / 2 (violet/white)	1 / 7 (green)	hot in accessory, run and start (ignition)
    X13025 / 3 (brown/orange)	1 / 8 (black)	ground
    X13025 / 4 (brown/green/yellow)	3 / 5 (red/white)	driver's door trigger
    X13025 / 5 (brown/blue/green)	3 / 5 (red/white)	passenger's door trigger
    X13025 / 6	UNUSED	UNUSED
    X13025 / 7 (black/blue)	5 / 4 (brown)	siren
    X13025 / 8 (blue/green/yellow)	2 / 1 (green/white)	Parking lights
    X13025 / 9 (green/white)	4 / 4 (blue)	+ lock
    X13025 / 10 (blue/red/yellow)	4 / 5 (blue/black)	+ unlock
    X13025 / 11 (brown/white)	3 / 4 (violet/black)	trunk trigger
    X13025 / 12 (white)	???	dome light
    X10244 (violet/green/yellow)	3 / 2 (gray/black)	hood trigger
    X78 / 2	3 / 3 (light blue/white)	foot brake

  Lock/Unlock Relays

  • It turns out that the CompuStar won't send positive pulses for lock and unlock. It sends ground pulses only; a ground pulse on connector 4 pin 4 for unlock, and a ground pulse on connector 4 pin 5 for lock. So I wired a pair of relays in place, along with diodes to enable double locking w/o putting feedback into the alarm brain.

    

Connecting the Siren

• The harness connector on the siren is X372 in the ETM. It is pictured in 7100.0-09-1 in the ETM. It has pin 2 wired to pin 7 on X13025, and pin 1 wired to ground.

  

  Naturally, mine wasn't located where expected. But it was easy to find, because it was clipped up high where it was visible and accessible.

  I need connector 61.12.1.382.263 and a pair of pins 61.13.0.007.444 to plug into the harness connector.

Syncing the remotes

• Two remotes are included with the 2WSS-AS. One is the 2-way pager remote with LCD display. The second is a small 4-button keyfob remote. Neither of these was synced to the brain out of the box.

  It seems that the remotes must be programmed in order. First the pager remote, then the keyfob remote.

  To sync the 2-way pager remote:

  • Remove the battery from the 2-way pager remote.
  • Manually put the alarm in valet mode by cycling the ignition key on and off 5 times within 10 seconds. The parking lights will flash to indicate the alarm is in valet mode.
  • Replace the battery in the 2-way pager remote within 10 seconds.

  To sync the keyfob remote:

  • Manually put the alarm in valet mode by cycling the ignition key on and off 5 times within 10 seconds. The parking lights will flash to indicate the alarm is in valet mode.
  • Push and hold button 1 on the keyfob remote. The parking lights will flash once; keep holding the button, and the parking lights will flash two more times in succession.

Dealer Programming

• There are a few things I want programmed at the local CompuStar dealer:
  • Ignition Lock - locks the doors the first time the brake pedal is depressed after the car is started with a key.
  • Passive arming with passive lock - system will arm 30 seconds after all doors are shut, and will also lock the doors. I'm not sure I want this; I can get just passive arming by pushing buttons II and III for 1/2 second. Hmm, as it turns out, it looks like I've got passive locking when I enable passive arming. The seller must have programmed it before he sent the unit to me.
  • Aux 1 pulse width - it'd be nice to have this set to 15 seconds or so; I could run it into the lock input to have my windows rolled up when arming. I also wouldn't mind having the same for Aux 2, which I could use to start closing the ragtop (say when I'm running across the parking lot due to unexpected rain :-)).

Window roll-up

• If I want window roll-up... see 5133.0-01 in the ETM.

  Driver's window
  

  • CLOSE: ground pin 7 and then pins 6 and 7 on X13254 to close the window. The actual sequence executed by the console window button is to ground pin 7, then ground pin 6, then open pin 6, then open pin 7.
  • OPEN: ground pin 6 and then pins 6 and 7 on X13254 to open the window. The actual sequence executed by the console window button is to ground pin 6, then ground pin 7, then open pin 7, then open pin 6.

  Passenger window
  

  • CLOSE: ground pin 9 and then pins 8 and 9 on X13254 to close the window. The actual sequence executed by the console window button is to ground pin 9, then ground pin 8, then open pin 8, then open pin 9.
  • OPEN: ground pin 8 and then pins 8 and 9 on X13254 to open the window. The actual sequence executed by the console window button is to ground pin 8, then ground pin 9, then open pin 9, then open pin 8.

  Since the window switches connect to the ZKE and not the window motors, I likely don't need to sink much current. However, the window switches don't have power at all times. I assume this is smarts in the ZKE IV. I don't know if there's any way around it. Of course, I can get window rollup with double locking if I use a long lock pulse; this is just like holding the key turned in the door lock. To do this I will need to run an auxiliary output from the alarm brain to my relay for 'lock', probably isolated with a diode. I also need the shop to program the duration of the pulse on the auxiliary output to be 15 seconds or so.

  The other alternative is to drive the motors directly using relays. I'm not sure how to do it. In the ETM I see 4 pins from each motor going to the ZKE IV. It looks like two drive the motor, and the other 2 are connected to a Hall-effect sensor. However, there's a thermo switch in series with the motor drive circuit. So which is used to stop the motor?. I've no idea, but the reference pic is 5133.0-02 in the ETM.

Remote Start

• I'm currently not aware of a means of starting the car w/o the key in the ignition. The drive-away protection wants the code to be read from the key.

  From 1240.0-02 in the ETM, pin 8 on connector X33 gets +12V when the ignition key is turned to the start position. Pin 3 on the EWS III gets +12V when the clutch pedal is fully depressed.

  Pin 15 on the EWS II gets connected to pin 10 on X13025, which is the unlock signal from the alarm.

  Pin 7 on the EWS III goes to the starter.

  Pin 14 on the EWS III goes to pin 33 on X60004, which goes to the DME. This is for drive-away protection, and presumably carries the code from the key.

  Pins 10 and 11 on the EWS III are connected to the toroidal coil in the ignition switch.

Docs

• CM3000 Wiring Guide
• CM3000 Install Manual
• 2WSS User Manual
• alarm harness connector

Links

• www.the12volt.com
  Lou Voerman's UNGO install
  

Log

• January 18, 2004
  I bought the 2WSS on eBay for $275. It should arrive on Thursday. UPS 1Z1395660380224191

• January 20, 2004
  I ordered a Paladin 8000 crimper w/ a 2033 die from GreatCables.com, in the hope I can get uncrimped pins.

• January 22, 2004
  The 2WSS arrived via UPS. Very nice package.

• January 24, 2004
  I sent a request to South Motors BMW for parts:
  • 61 13 1 378 138 - alarm connector shell
  • 61 13 1 376 204 - female pins for alarm connector

  In addition to these parts, I requested some others I need (unrelated to alarm installation):

  • 51 45 8 397 823 - headlight vertical aim control cover
  • 61 13 0 005 197 - pin sleeve
  • 61 13 8 380 696 - 4-pin sleeve shell
  • 11 61 7 831 745 - air intake clamp

• February 19, 2004
  Well, Paul never got back to me, so I ordered the alarm parts from the local dealer. They should be here next week.

• February 24, 2004
  The alarm connector shell and pins arrived at the local dealer. Sigh, they superceded the empty pins here too, I could only get tailed pins. They all have black/green tails.

• February 25, 2004
  I temporarily wired the alarm to the new connector shell, so I can plug it in to the car and see if the basics work properly.

  I plugged the alarm in, but the remote wasn't talking to the brain. I was also not seeing any activity from the parking lights when entering valet mode manually (cycle ignition 5 times in 10 seconds). I had the parking light connection wrong; I needed to use Pin 1 on connector 2 of the CompuStar (green/white wire), instead of pin 2 on connector 1. The crash control module wanted a ground, not 12V. I fixed the wiring table above.

  Once this was corrected, the alarm started working properly, except that it's not working the locks. Obviously I want double-locking, so I want to connect the lock output on the alarm to pins 9 and 10 both. I want a diode between the lock output on the alarm and pin 10, and a diode between the unlock output on the alarm and pin 10. But before I do this work, I need to check that I'm getting pulse from the alarm on the lock and unlock outputs. Check these with the multimeter. I suspect I'm getting a ground signal, meaning I'm looking at the wrong CompuStar manual. :-) In that case, I should put relays or inverters in place. Hmm, this is begging for a small PCB project, so I could put the diodes for double locking, diodes for door triggers and a dual-channel high-side driver or a pair of relays on one board to take care of everything. Actually, the car inputs are low-current, I can probably use transistors in place of high-side drivers or relays.

• February 27, 2004
  I put together a small board with a pair of reed relays and terminal blocks so I can test the lock/unlock inversion. I used inexpensive relays from Radio Shack, whose coils have a 1050 ohm resistance. This will prevent the CompuStar brain from having to sink more current than it can handle; it'll sink 250 mA, and 14V/1050ohm = 135 mA. I tested the relay board this morning, and it works fine. Time to wire it to the alarm in the car to see if it works. But first I should wire in the diodes I picked up from Radio shack.

  I wired the relays and diodes in, and they work fine. I now have unlocking and double locking working fine.

  I placed the antenna on the windshield on the passenger side, up high. I don't think I like it there, but it's the best location for reception that doesn't interfere with my view. CompuStar calibrates the antennas for location on the top of the windshield on the driver's side, but I don't want it there and the included wiring isn't long enough to run from there to the alarm brain; I'd have to cut and splice in more wire. I ran the wire inside the A-pillar cover, just like my Valentine One power wire.

  I'm still debating where to put the status LED. The original plan was to use an LED in an Apem IP series pushbutton, since I was planning to move DSC to such a button (above my Sport mode button) and I have no use for the LED for DSC. But I haven't done that work yet, and I'm not sure I want the alarm LED down in the enter console, since I won't be able to see it unless I'm standing next to the car. Putting it in my mirror would be much more useful. If I'm carrying the pager remote, it's not relevant, since the pager gives me status. So maybe the center console is fine, at least for now.

  I ordered a DEI 2-stage radar motion detector from autotoys.com. I had originally tried getting one through the guy I bought the alarm from, but he didn't get back to me when I said I needed it ASAP.

  I'm removing things from the alarm harness that I don't need. The first is the relay connected to pin 3 on connector 1; this relay has purple and blue pigtails and is intended for a second ignition, 2nd accessory or 2nd starter wire.

• February 28, 2004
  I started working on the 'real' harness, i.e. trimming it down to size, soldering, heatshrinking, etc. I'm almost done, but I still don't have a connector for the hood pin. I think I'll just use a blade disconnect; it's not like I'll ever want a factory alarm in the car, and it's a separate wire. The important thing is that's it's removable if needed.

  I used butt splices in 2 spots, because it would have been too hard to solder (way too much wire; I used AWG 10 butt splices). I crimped them very tightly, and wrapped them with electrical tape too.

  The pieces remaining... I'm waiting for the motion detector to arrive, and I need to wire the foot brake switch to enable auto locking (locks engaged the first time the brake pedal is depressed after the car is started). I think I'll just Scotch-lock the brake pedal signal; it's not critical alarm functionality.

• February 29, 2004
  I wired the brake pedal output, using a Scotch-lock. While I was under there, I removed the kneee bolster to get at some of the things that rattle. There's a big 40A fuse and base that was bouncing on the top of the knee bolster. I zip-tied it up. I'm still debating whether or not to put the knee bolster back. It's a good thing to have in a head-on accident, but it makes working under there a real pain and makes removing the dash undercover a lot harder.

  It turns out that the 'Ignition Lock' feature has to be programmed with a programmer. I need to compile a list of things I want programmed, so I can have it all done at once by the local CompuStar dealer.

  I installed the RPS sensor on the lower edge of the windshield on the passenger's side. Seems to work fine, and fills my desire for an easily visible 'armed' indicator; it has a blue LED in the center. I wanted to put it on the driver's side, but the included 4-pin wire is nowhere near long enough.

• March 1, 2004
  I mounted the alarm brain. It fits fine atop all the other stuff behind the glove box, but there's no really good way to fasten it there. I considered removing the whole plastic piece there to put some small holes in it, but there's really no good place to put the holes that will match up with the alarm mounting tabs, for zip-ties or screws. I packed it in there with packing foam. It shouldn't move around once the harness wires are zip-tied.

  For now, I mounted the shock sensor to the side of the bracket behind the glove box, using double-sided tape. It should work fine, and to be honest I generally hate shock sensors; it's a tricky game to adjust them to get just what you want in all weather conditions without false triggers. Ultimately the motion sensor will be much more important to me, and I won't be able to get the shock sensor adjusted where I want for a while; it's not something I can get just right when the car is garaged for the winter.

  I zipped things up a bit and test-fit the glove box. All's well, I now just need to wait for the motion detector to arrive to finish the installation. It might be time to look at my ProjectorZ installation.

• March 10, 2004
  Sigh, now autotoys.com is saying that the motion sensor I ordered (DEI 508D) is on backorder. I'm going to cancel my order, since it's available many other places (and for less $$$). Auto Preservers has it for $41. Discounts-n-Deals.com has it for $40.30 and say they have 99 in stock.

• March 25, 2004
  I ordered a DEI 508D from Discounts-n-Deals.com. autotoys.com still had none available and no ETA.

• March 26, 2004
  I finally got around to installing two Apem IP LED-illuminated pushbuttons in one console blank. One will still control Sport Mode, while the second will replace my DSC button. Since I don't need an LED for DSC, I will be using the LED in the second one as my in-cabin alarm status LED. Connector 6 on the alarm is for the status LED; pin 1 (black) is ground, pin 2 (bl/white) is positive.

  It looks like the DEI 508D has 4 wires:

  • Red 12V
  • Black ground
  • Green warn-away trigger (stage 1)
  • Blue instant trigger (stage 2)
  I should pre-wire from the alarm to the expected location of the DEI 508D, so I can button up my glovebox and dash again. I'm expecting to put the DEI 508D under the center console somewhere near the subwoofer grill.
• March 27, 2004
  I tested the Apem IP pushbutton's LED with the alarm status output. It works fine, but I haven't checked the current yet to make sure it won't fry it over the long haul. But just looking at it, I think it will be fine. The alarm LED was wired to the connector that plugs into the alarm, so I had to cut it off to connect the Aepm IP pushbutton's LED.

  My glove box is out and I'm ready to tackle the remains of the wiring. We're having company tonight though, so I won't get to it 'til late tonight.

  I made a harness for the motion sensor: 4 wires in flame-retardant braided sleeve.

• March 28, 2004
  I started working on removing my center console so I can check the available space for the motion sensor and cleanly run the wires. I also want to tidy up my sport mode module wiring and get the new LED-illuminated button setup in place. I also want to drop in my ISSPRO EVM voltmeter to see what it looks like in the car.

  I removed my shift knob, boot and foam, then popped out the handbrake boot. I then removed my head unit and its installation sleeve, and all of the buttons (front and back, plus uncoupling the UGDO wiring). I then removed the HVAC controls. Finally, I removed the VDO gauges, which is a pain in the ass; it's difficult to get your hand back there and there's not much of the threaded sleeve exposed. Once I got the console moved back a bit, I disconnected the cigar lighter wires.

  Here's what my new button arrangement will look like. The Apem IP on the bottom of the center blank is still my Sport mode button, while the top one is DSC. I will use the LED in the top one as my alarm status LED. Note that I moved my power ragtop button up front.

  

  In order to reroute the wiring for the power ragtop buttons, I unbundled those wires from the rest of the harness up to the point where it gets tricky (going under the carpet forward of the handbrake). The wire might actually reach from here, but I think it needs another 6 to 8 inches. My carpet is very snug, and trying to pull up the harness here isn't easy. I may just splice and extra 8 inches into the wires. Wish I had some thinner gauge wire... I ordered 8 colors of 22AWG hook-up wire from Mouser.

  I also ordered some harness wrapping tape from Eastwood.

• April 4, 2004
  I ordered a Crime Guard AU94T dual-zone radar motion sensor from Crutchfield. I'm tired of waiting for the rinky-dink sites to send me a DEI 508D. The dimensions of the AU94T are 3.5"L x 3.5"W x .75"D. Note I may change my mind on the wiring for this sensor; I might use connector 1 pin 5 on the alarm, which is the negative when armed output. This would prevent the motion sensor from consuming current when the alarm is not armed.

• April 5, 2004
  The Crime Guard AU94T dual-zone radar motion sensor shipped from Crutchfield. UPS 1Z2807700304504160

• April 6, 2004
  The Crime Guard AU94T dual-zone radar motion sensor should arrive today.

• April 7, 2004
  I installed the AU-94TM motion sensor. Currently I have it behind the subwoofer grill, but may later move it under the center console. I ran the harness under the carpet through the tunnel, covered in braided sleeve.
• April 16, 2004
  I plugged in the AU-94TM for testing. The wiring:

  AU-94TM	Alarm Connector/Pin	Description
  red	1/1 (red)	power
  black	1/5 (violet)	ground
  green	8/1	warn-away trigger
  blue	8/2	instant trigger

  The default sensitivity setttings are pretty reasonable, but I had to turn sensitivity down a little in both zones to prevent false alarms.

• September 13, 2004
  Well, after months of the remotes not working reliably (like less than 10% of the time), I gave up on the CompuStar alarm and ordered a Stellar VTXC (which are now actually available). The CompuStar spread-spectrum alarms are apparently notoriously flakey for communication. It's rare that I can get the remotes to sync with the brain, and they'll work for a day and then stop working for 10 days no matter how many times I try to resync them. I've declared this a failed experiment. If you go with CompuStar, get one of their FM units and not the 2WSS.