Diary

• May 14, 2013
  
  • oil
    61,871 miles. Changed oil and oil filter.

• January 20, 2012
  
  • valvetrain
    I ordered a 3 oz. tube of 3M 8662 and a 7.25 oz. aerosol squirt can of Permatex hi-temp silicone gasket maker (Permatex 85915) from McMaster-Carr. I'll use one of these to seal the valve cover. BMW recommends Drei Bond or the 3M 8662 that I bought, but I normally prefer using the Permatex for this type of task because the squirt can makes it easy to lay down an even bead without making a mess. These should be here on Monday.

• January 19, 2012
  
  • valvetrain
    I received three sets of Eastern Industries feeler gauges today. One set is straight-bladed step-ground tool steel, one set is 45-degree bent flat ground tool steel, and the final set is straight stainless steel. I know I can use the 45-degree feeler gauges for the valve clearance/adjustment service, but I'm still waiting to hear from threadcheck.com about custom feeler gauges.

• January 18, 2012
  
  • valvetrain
    The valve shim kit (BMW 11.34.0.031.525) arrived, along with the tool to install/remove them (BMW 83.30.0.493.743). The crank turning tool (BMW 83.30.0.491.056) arrived. I also received all of the gaskets for the valve clearance maintenance: the one for the cover itself (BMW 11.12.7.832.024), six spark plug hole gaskets (BMW 11.12.7.831.271), two valve cover seal washer grommets (BMW 11.12.1.437.395) and thirteen valve cover nut grommets (BMW 11.12.7.830.972).

• January 17, 2012
  
  • valvetrain
    The valve shim kit and gasket set shipped from ECS Tuning, along with the tool to turn the engine over via the crank (83.30.0.491.056). Randy pointed out that I shouldn't need the tool, and I think he's right; my S54 is new enough that it has the hex on the end and I can just use a socket. But it's better to have the tool and not need it than need the tool and not have it. These items should arrive tomorrow or Thursday.

• January 16, 2012
  
  • valvetrain
    I talked to Mark Koszyk at threadcheck.com today about feeler gauges from Eastern Industries. I ordered some of the off-the-shelf gauges, but I also requested a quote for 2 sets of custom gauges. These would be specifically for checking valve clearance on the S54. I want 6" long blades with a 90-degree bend about 1" from the business end, in ranges .18mm to .23mm in .01mm increments for the intake side. I want the same thing for the exhaust side, but in .28mm to .33 mm range in .01mm increments. I asked if Eastern Indsutries can make sets in very low quantities when the blade thickness is not in their offered roll stock, and he said yes. We'll see, he said he'd probably have a quote for me tomorrow. I'm expecting a setup fee due to the non-standard blade thickness, but I've no idea what it will cost. I'm working under the assumption that many of my M friends will want a set, which might offset some of the per-set cost. I know Randy will want a set, and I think I can assume at least 5 other people will want sets.

    Unrelated, but it looks like BMW changed the camshaft press-down tool. 83.30.0.490.959 is the new part number, and it appears to have 4 press-down points versus the 2 of the old tool. Picture thanks to Performance Technic:

• January 13, 2012
  
  • valvetrain
    I ordered the valve shim kit and gasket set from ECS Tuning. I also ordered the tool to turn the engine over via the crank (83.30.0.491.056). I need to order some feeler gauges.

• August 28, 2011
  
  • oil
    51,499 miles: oil and oil filter changed. Air filter replaced.

• audio
  I topped off the water in the watercooling pump resorvoir. I've got a slow leak somewhere, but I don't have time to find it before my trip to Tennessee for Ben's funeral.

• August 22, 2010
  
  • audio
    I removed the passenger side kick panel to figure out why there's a bad rattle coming from the 5.25" speaker behind it. It turns out that the speaker was loose in its frame, presumably just from long-term vibration. It's a twist-lock sort of set up. I removed the frame, filled it with weatherstrip adhesive, reinstalled the speaker in the frame, and cleaned up the excess that oozed out. Hopefully this cures the problem.

    I should order 8 more expanding nuts for the kickpanel speakers, P/N 63 17 1 367 868.

• August 21, 2010
  
  • audio
    I finally replaced my radio antenna that some kids had broken off last year. I had to replace the base since that had been broken. While I was at it, I replaced the grommet. So it's all new, and works fine.

    I addressed the issue with my subwoofer vinyl. I removed the speaker, then pulled and superglued the parts that had peeled back. Unfortunately I got some glue on the top of it in one spot that I hadn't masked with tape. Of course, I've always been unhappy with the vinyl covering; it should have been fastened better everywhere, and I'd rather have leather. Someday I'll recover it in leather. While I was at it, I cut and installed a silicone gasket for the speaker. It should be better at preventing leaks, and it'll hold up to high temperatures unlike the weatherstripping I had used in the past.

• July 3, 2010
  
  • body
    Last night I scraped the frame rail on the passenger side while leaving DTE Music Theater. Gosh I hate the parking there, it's always sucked for sportscars (gravel and lawn unless you show up 3 hours early). Anyway, today I cleaned up the frame rail, put a coat of Eastwood Rust Encapsulator on it, then applied 3 coats of Eastwood Rubberized Undercoating with a brush. I prefer the brush application method since there's no overspray and I have more control over the texture. Plus the brush lets me get into all gouges in the factory undercoating on the first coat without air being trapped underneath.

    I also put 2 light coats of high-temperature paint on the underside of part of the exhaust midsection that was scratched.

    Tomorrow I'll put more rubberized undercoating on the frame rail, and then raise my rear ride height a bit. It has been too low ever since I installed the TC Kline D/A suspension.

• June 29, 2010
  
  • detailing
    I cleaned the engine compartment with citrus-based degreaser and Meguiar's detailing spray.

    I washed the car, clayed it, polished it and waxed it. I did not get to the wheels or the ragtop (window needs polishing, top needs treating).

• June 26, 2010
  
  • fuel system
    I poured a bottle of fuel system cleaner in the fuel tank. This time I used the Gumout product, which was on sale. I've used it before, it works fine and IMHO is just as trustworthy as the Techron product.

• June 23, 2010
  
  • oil
    45,050 miles: oil and filter changed.

• September 6, 2009
  
  • body
    I wetsanded the driver side door and rear fender a bit with 1000 grit sandpaper. I then compounded it with Menzerna Power Gloss compound, polished with 3m Fine Cut, then polished with Menzerna Final Polish II. It looks better, but it's not perfect. I will likely need to have new clear put on the door. Eventually I'd like to have the whole car re-cleared with a few extra coats so I can wetsand the whole car (get rid of the factory eggshell).

• brakes
  

  I put the BP-10 brake pads back on the car, replacing the Q pads. The Q pads glaze too easily and I'm tired of deglazing them and using Scotchbrite on the rotors.

• September 5, 2009
  
  • oil
    41,390 miles: I changed my oil and oil filter. This turned into a huge job because my MityVac 7201 imploded under vacuum with 4.5 liters of hot dirty oil in it. There was some brake fluid cleaner mixed in since I normally pre-spray some in the MityVac to thin the oil a bit. Bad... my clearcoat was damaged on the fender and driver side door. I'll see how well I can fix it with wetsanding, compounding and polishing.

• July 3, 2009
  
  • general
    Code 1b5c popped up again. I cleared it again. I should probably check my long-term fuel trims.

    Last week, the bottom of the car snagged a fuel tank cover at a gas station. It turns out that it hit one of the longitudinal rail pieces, removing paint and undercoating. Today I cleaned it up, sprayed some rust encapsulator on it, then applied some Eastwood rubber undercoating (3 coats, brushed on).

    I also tweaked the midsection heatshield, since it was rattling.

    While I was under the car, I found two nuts missing from the outboard driver side muffler hanger. I put new nuts on.

• May 30, 2009
  
  • fuel system
    Put a bottle of fuel system cleaner in the fuel tank.

• May 9, 2009
  
  • connecting rod bearings
    37,000 miles: connecting rod bearings replaced at Randy's place. They needed it; all were out of position. Oil and filter changed.

• July 23, 2008
  
  • general
    Codes 1b5c and 1be8 have returned. Time to replace the post-cat O2 sensor and look at the purge valve.

• June 25, 2008
  
  • general
    I checked for trouble codes with the Peake today. I've got 1b86, expected since I had the cluster disconnected when doing the SGI-5 installation. I've also got 1be8 (Evaporative emissions purge valve functional check), 1b5c (AfterCat oxygen sensor aging, Cyl #1-3) and 1b7d (???).

• June 24, 2008
  
  • tires
    My tire pressure monitor light came on again. This is twice in the last month, both times after washing the car. I checked my tire pressures and they're all good. Just to note it here, I've got both fronts at 35 psi and both rears at 33.5 psi (using the Accutire gauge). I suspect that one of the wheel speed sensor connectors is retaining water.

• June 6, 2008
  
  • general
    

    The real source of rattle was my power steering fluid resorvoir. The M6 bolt that is supposed to hold the clamp was completely missing. I don't normally have M6 hex head bolts around, only socket head cap screws. But I found a stainless M6 hex head bolt in my stainless drawer that was just long enough to work. I put blue loctite on the end of it after installing, just to try to keep it from falling out. I'd actually like a longer M6 bolt so I could put a locknut on. There's a captive nut in the band clamp, but it's very thin. I ordered some 20mm long stainless M6 hex head cap screws.

• coolant
  Changed engine coolant at 34,621 miles. Capacity if the block is drained appears to be just over 2 gallons. Given that the 50/50 ratio doesn't have to be exact, I think it could be done with a single 1-gallon jug of coolant, using a little extra water (or Water Wetter) to finish off. That's what I'll do next time instead of cracking another gallon of coolant.

  I then went hunting for the source of a rattle from the front of the car that's been bugging me for a while. I first checked the torque on the nuts for the front swaybar brackets. All 4 needed retorqueing, and I decided to put a second set of locknuts on each stud to act as jam nuts. I ordered M8 jamnuts and a Loctite blue stick since I can't really get the squirt bottle stuff on the studs, and putting it on the nuts doesn't help because it's all gone by the time the nut is all the way onto the stud.

• June 4, 2008
  
  • body
    I finally installed the 4 expanding rivets that were never re-installed after the body shop work from being hit by the drunk driver. These were the ones in the brake duct areas. They gave me a few fits as usual, but they are in.

• May 4, 2008
  
  • differential
    34,106 miles, differential fluid changed. 3.5 liters of Redline 80W140.

• May 3, 2008
  
  • brakes
    StopFlex brake lines from Classic Tube installed in the rear with Russell stainless steel 45-degree fittings on the calipers to keep the lines away from the struts.

• April 30, 2008
  
  • fuel filter
    34,106 miles: New fuel filter installed. Pictures of old one cut open are here.

• rear trailing arm bushings
  

  New rear trailing arm bushings installed in the trailing arms (buh-bye squeaky Irelands).

• April 25, 2008
  
  • fuel filter
    I ordered a fuel filter from the local dealer. 13.32.7.831.089, list price $59.75.

• April 24, 2008
  
  • tools
    I ordered a Fowler bore gauge (54-646-401) from www.penntoolco.com. Order #226311.

• April 22, 2008
  
  • oil
    Mailed my 33,923 mile oil sample to Blackstone. Also mailed in the 29,447 mile one, which I had never sent in (oops).

• April 18, 2008
  
  • oil
    33,923 miles: Oil/filter changed. Air filter changed. Poured a bottle of Techron injector cleaner in the gas tank before filling up with Sunoco 94.

• July 21, 2007
  
  • Transmission shift pins
    Randy and I did the two service actions on my transmission today. The one for the shift catch pins, and the one for the 5th and reverse gear locking pin bushings. 5 new bushings total, 5 new sealing caps, 3 new springs and 3 new pins. I wish I would have bought a new locking pin for 5th gear; mine is clearly worn unevenly. If you're doing this work, buy new locking pins for reverse and 5th gear. FWIW, the service bulletin says you need the repair kit 23.11.7.542.726, but in reality you need two of them; there's only one bushing per kit and you need two. Also need all the right tools, which I bought (4 drifts and a small slide hammer).

    In stock form, all of the shift catch pins slide in the machined bore in the transmission case. I guess it's no wonder that they can develop problems with sticking in the bore; different materials with different expansion rates, and the bore doesn't really get wetted. The two forward ones were both quite dry, the rearmost one was a little wetter. The repair kit comes with 3 bushings (look to be lined with a PTFE mix), 3 new catch pins, 3 new springs, and 3 new sealiing caps.

    Everything went without a hitch. Auxiliary parts needed: all exhaust fasteners to remove the midsection, and the gaskets at the header end since they're graphite and mine were pretty much toast (at 31,000 miles). Looking at them, I'm surprised more people don't develop exhaust leaks at this point. Whatever slight binder is in those appears to melt a bit over time. I didn't take pictures, you'll have to take my word for it.

• April 22, 2007
  
  • oil
    29,447 miles: Oil/filter changed. Air filter changed even though the previous one was still quite spiffy.

• August 25, 2006
  
  • brakes
    26,500 miles: New air filter. New brakes (Wilwood), so brake system has been flushed and filled.

• June 4, 2006
  
  • general
    A prolonged power outage forced me to quit early last night.
    • DONE - torqued the slave cylinder into place. 22Nm.
    • DONE - torqued the X-brace back into place (22Nm front bolts, 45Nm rear bolts)
    • DONE - installed an M6x1 jam nut on the DME ground on the shock tower. The factory flanged nut is not a locknut, unfortunately.
    • DONE - re-installed the newly painted fuel filter/regulator cover.
    • DONE - cleaned and re-installed tunnel undercover.
    • DONE - cleaned the inside of the wheels (road tar, etc.)
    • DONE - put wheels back on car, put it back on the ground.

• June 3, 2006
  
  • brakes
    I flushed and bled my brakes. I measured my rotor thicknesses too:

    Driver front:	27.58 mm
    Passenger front:	27.61 mm
    Driver rear:	19.73 mm
    Passenger rear:	19.62 mm

    I switched up my bleeding order a bit this time around. I did the driver's rear first instead of the passenger rear. The initial fluid from the passenger rear caliper was dirtier (slightly grayed) than the fluid in the driver rear caliper.

    I ordered speed bleeder valves from Pelican Parts. My existing bleeder valves have rounded-off wrench flats and I need to replace them, so I might as well try these.

    • DONE - flushed brake fluid, replaced with ATE gold (was formerly ATE blue).
    • DONE - bled brakes.
    • DONE - measured rotors, they're still well above minimum thickness.

• clutch
  

  I can't seem to get the clutch slave cylinder line disconnected from the hard line. due to the position of the flats on the hose on the topside of the mounting bracket, I had to use a crowfoot from underneath. It seems I can't get enough leverage on my 11 mm flare wrench to turn the flare. There's not a lot of room to work. With two people, someone could hold the flare wrench from above. Working alone, I don't think I can get it off without risking twisting the hard line. I'm taking a break to watch a nasty thunderstorm roll in and then I'll look at it again.

  4:30PM I managed to get the clutch line off by putting a deep socket with a short extension over the end of my flare wrench for more leverage. Interesting that the orifice on the stock hose is so small. It was hard to judge from pictures, but now that I've seen in, I think I understand some of my clutch slip issues when driving at full tilt.

  6:00PM after much hunting, I found the 14mm shim washers I needed for the mounting of the aftermarket clutch line in the brackets. This is just like the issue with replacing the brake lines; there's no flange on the ends of aftermarket lines. A precision shim washer is what's needed, to catch the points on the hex of the line. I'm using the same ones I used on my brake lines: 14mm ID, 20mm OD, 1mm thick. McMaster-Carr part number 98089A392.

  • DONE - intake trumpets cleaned of oil film.
  • DONE - measured clutch plate thickness with the BMW tool (21 2 080). I have plenty of clutch plate left.
  • DONE - replaced clutch slave cylinder soft line with the one I got from Ron, and bled the slave cylinder.

• June 2, 2006
  
  • general
    
    • DONE - fetch the fuse tool from under the air filter box where I dropped it last Saturday night.
    • DONE - throw a coat of chassis black paint on the aluminum that covers the fuel filter and regulator.

• June 1, 2006
  
  • gauges
    I checked as to why I've been getting odd oil pressure readings (too high). It appears to be a problem with the connector closest the pressure sender. I'll eliminate that connector, it's not needed since I can just disconnect the ring terminals from the sender.
    • DONE - Reconnect differential temperature sender amplifier, wrap with silicone splicing tape.
    • DONE - Fix problem with oil pressure sender connector.

    I'd like some #10-32 nuts for the oil pressure sender connection, I don't like the ones that came with it (they're not nuts, they're just threaded spacers). I also seem to be out of ring terminals in the right size.

• May 29, 2006
  
  • general
    I got the car into the garage for poking. The first thing I started checking was electrical. All fuses in the fuse box look good, except the wiper fuse. I can't remember the last time I used my wipers. That's a 30A fuse chained from fuse 108. The DME is also powered from fuse 108. So I pulled the lower dash and checked all of the fuses in the junction box. They're all good.

    It's time to check the fuel pressure. I want to see if the fuel pump runs, but the relay module I need to bypass is under the center console in the back. PITA location to get to (I should move it to being behind the useless subwoofer grill). with the e-brake boot and center armrest out, I can't get to it. Center console has to come out. Oh joy.

    I checked all of the fuses in the e-box, they're all good. I don't hear the fuel pump running for start, after releasing the tiny bit of residual pressure. I can't seem to find residual pressure numbers for the S54, but there was almost none when I opened the Schrader valve. That might be normal. It might also explain the occasional cold start sputter of the S54, but I usually hear the fuel pump at start. I guess it's time to yank the center console and test the fuel pump by bypassing the relay. I should check some more electrical too; anything going from the DME to the fuel pump control module?

    I checked the HFM to see if it's getting voltage from the DME. I found 10.62V on pin 1, 10.35V on pin 2 (hmm, shouldn't that be 12V?), 10.69V on pin 3, 10.68V on pin 4 and 10.55V on pin 5. Hopefully this means my DME isn't dead.

    2:15AM figured it out. A loose ground connection for the DME (and some other things) on the passenger side shock tower. Sigh, all that work for a loose ground. I'm guessing that on Saturday evening, I didn't notice the EML light. I ignore the DSC light most of the time since my Sport/DSC control module restores my last setting and I sometimes have DSC off on the street. The Peake tool showing no codes led me astray, but I should've known something DME-wise was up when it later showed the flashing 'E'.

    Very odd that I was able to drive the car so far on Michigan roads (rough, esp. the section of M14 that is under contruction) without having any issues at all. No limp mode, no problems.

• May 28, 2006
  
  • general
    No one around to help me get the car in the garage. However, I have no fuel pump sound... I can't remember if the system stays fully pressurized, but I suspect not since I often hear the noise at start. But if it hasn't been running... I need to check.

• May 27, 2006
  
  • general
    Car died with EML and DSC lights early AM in Southfield, MI. I was on my way home from visiting some old friends I hadn't seen in 20+ years. I turned off of Telegraph to follow a detour (the I-696 intersection is closed for construction). I hit a nasty bump and the engine died. It will not start. Cranks over but doesn't start. Peake tool won't read any codes (gives the flashing 'E').

    Note that earlier in the day, the car sputtered and stalled after idling for 30-60 seconds. It took 3 or 4 tries to start it again. I had just washed the underside of the car, then the exterior. I checked codes then, and found none. I assumed I had gotten water somewhere it shouldn't be. Bad assumption. But the car was fine for over 100 miles.

    I had the car flatbedded home. I didn't get home until 5:30AM.

• July 4, 2005
  
  • oil
    Engine oil, oil filter and air filter changed at 20,807 miles. I wanted to run the oil longer, but had to drain it for some gauge work. Oil was drained by the topsider, then the sump cover.

    Stainless steel braided oil pressure gauge hose replaced with a Kevlar hose and re-routed to not rub on bottom of air intake support bracket. Oil pressure sender replaced with one from ISSPRO EVA oil pressure gauge set. New ISSPRO EVA oil temperature sender installed in oil pan sump cover.

    x-brace removed, cleaned and re-installed. Airbox cleaned. New intake clamps installed (they're one-time use).

    I ordered an Earl's M12x1.5 to 4AN adapter to replace the adapter block on my oil filter housing, since I'm not using the temperature sender port on the adapter block anymore. Since I'm giving the adapter block to Isaac, I also ordered a 1/8 NPT plug in case he doesn't need both ports.

• June 4, 2005
  
  • transmission
    Transmission fluid changed at 20,035 miles. New fluid is BMW MTF-LT-2. The old fluid looked like what I expected; slightly dirtied. The drain plug had just a hint of tiny metal dust/flake in its recess. Both the drain and fill plugs felt like they were overtorqued, but there was no thread damage. I used 50 Nm when I replaced them.

• April 29, 2005
  
  • exhaust
    H-pipe painted with high-temp paint, and oven-cured. Subframe reinstalled with Ireland Engineering polyurethane trailing arm bushings.

• April 10, 2005
  
  • rear subframe
    Ireland rear toe and camber kits installed by Randy Forbes.

• March 5, 2005
  
  • coolant
    Engine coolant changed at 18,170 miles.

• November 10, 2004
  
  • rear subframe
    Rear end pre-emptively reinforced by Randy Forbes. Rogue dual-ear differential cover installed. Eisenmann Sport exhaust installed. Differential fluid changed to Redline 75w90. Differential output seals replaced.

• September 13, 2004
  
  • oil
    Engine oil and filter changed at 17,372 miles. Air filter replaced.

• September 11, 2004
  
  • clutch pedal
    Ron Stygar clutch pedal/bushing installed.

• August 21, 2004
  
  • brakes
    Brake fluid changed, brake lines replaced with StopStech stainless braided lines.

• August 7, 2004
  
  • brakes
    Brake pads replaced with Axxis Deluxe Plus pads.

• May 11, 2004
  
  • rear subframe
    Rear subframe bushings changed to Ireland Engineering polyurethane bushings.

• March 13, 2004
  
  • oil
    Engine oil and filter changed at 13,050 miles. Air filter replaced.

• July 25, 2003
  
  • oil
    Engine oil and filter changed at 9,033 miles. Air filter replaced.

• October 13, 2002
  
  • oil
    Engine oil and filter changed at 5,557 miles.

• July 26, 2002
  
  • oil
    Engine oil changed at 3,405 miles.