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My next oscilloscope: Agilent DSOX2012A or DSOX3012A

I’ve needed a new bench oscilloscope for quite some time, both for work-from-home activities and for my hobby activities. I have an old HP54501A, but the NVRAM died in it years ago. When I bought a replacement system board with new NVRAM, it continued to have problems. In addition, the sampling rate is abysmally slow, making to only useful for slow or very repetitive signals. It is essentially useless for glitch-hunting activities I’ve needed to perform in the last 2 years, forcing me to use one of the $20,000+ scopes in the lab at work on several occasions. The old Tektronix TDS460 on my desk at work isn’t even sufficient for some of the things I’ve needed to do.

I’ve looked at several of the dirt-cheap scopes. The Rigol units from the DS1102E upward, the Owon units, the lower-priced GW Instek units, etc. However, their updates rates are not good (the Owons are terrible at around 32 waveforms/sec), the build quality is poor (especially on the Rigols), and the firmware isn’t terribly robust. They are an incredible bang for the buck, especially for the casual hobbyist, but they are not tools I can count on to save me time (and hence money) for advanced hobby use and professional use. Of the units I’ve looked at, the only truly appealing ones are the Owons for their portability (battery is an option) and deep memory. They are essentially incapable of finding signal glitches due to their very low waveform capture rate; I’d only consider one for portable use on repetitive signals, or in cases where I need basic MSO capabilities for dirt cheap.

In 2011, Agilent released a series of game-changing oscilloscopes in the InfiniiVision 2000 and 3000 X-Series oscilloscopes. The big deal: a 50,000 waveform/sec capture rate thanks to an Agilent-designed ASIC, at a price point of $1200 for the base 70MHz model. The 3000 series (starting at around $2800) will do 1,000,000 waveforms/sec! These new oscilloscopes can find signal glitches at rates previously only attainable at a price point in excess of $5000, which is well beyond what can be justified if you’re not making money daily with your oscilloscope. The build quality is well above the Rigols, Owons and GW Insteks. The screen is an 8.5″ WVGA (800×480). And you can start with a base unit and purchase additional features as needed, many of them being only software license changes (the feature is already in the base model, it just needs to be unlocked via a license key).

I’ve essentially never needed a 4-channel scope, except when I need MSO or serial bus decoding features. So I’ll likely start with the DSOX2012A and later add the MSO option. The only things that have me considering the more expensive 3000 X-series: more triggering features, and a lot more upgrade options especially for bus decoding and triggering. And some of the upgrade options have more features than the 2000 X-series. For example, the waveform generator can do arbitrary waveforms whereas the 2000 can not.

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Repairing my Monster HTS 3500

I have an older Monster HTS 3500 that died some time ago. In the interest of not putting it in the landfill, I took it apart today to see what’s wrong.

One of the MOVs is toasted. It’s a Ceramate GNR20D201K. I can’t be sure, but I’m assuming a lightning strike or the like took it out. Don’t ask me why there isn’t a gas surge suppressor in here. Cheap construction would presumably be the answer, but I don’t have a schematic and don’t feel like digging too deep. I’ll replace the MOV and see what happens from there. I probably have some that I can scavenge, we’ll see.

Feb 8, 2012
I removed the burned MOV using my desoldering gun, and was about to replace it when I decided to check the thermal fuse that’s squeezed between the first two MOVs. It is open, so I need to replace it. It appears to be an SF139U, which as near as I can tell is no longer made. But it was 10A, 250V, 142 Celsius. I checked the other thermal fuses and they’re all good. I ordered new thermal fuses from Digi-Key, part number 317-1134-ND. I don’t have the same tape that Monster used to keep the MOVs near the thermal fuse. I’ll likely just use powdercoating tape since I know it’ll survive higher temperatures than the thermal fuse and I have some on-hand.

To make sure this would fix things, I shorted across the leads of the open fuse. Sure enough, the HTS 3500 comes to life and shows no errors. Hooray for some inexpensive troubleshooting and parts saving me a couple hundred dollars.

Feb 13, 2012
I replaced two MOVs and the thermal fuse, and all is well. I put the case back on and it’s ready to go back in the family room.

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Shopping for 3″ pneumatic random orbital sanders

I’ve been looking for a 3″ random orbital sander for quite some time. For the most part, I want it for car detailing in the spots that are hard to get at with my larger random orbitals. I will occasionally use it for other purposes.

I want a pneumatic. There are several electric options, but I’ve never been a big fan of electric random orbitals for paint work. They’re big, heavy, and they have no love for water and dust. Sure, they are sometimes more convenient (don’t need an air compressor, cord is thinner than an air hose). But I’ve been using pneumatic random orbitals for more than a decade and I prefer them. They don’t get hot, they’re lightweight, and good ones run for a VERY long time with little to no maintenance.

Normally I would choose a Dynabrade and be done with it. The Dynabrade 21020 looks good, and can accept the Dynabrade 56087 pad. The Dynabrade 21020 is $210 to $300 online, and the Dynabrade 56087 pad is about $20 additional. At the moment it’s my top choice.

Another option is the 3M 20250, which comes with a Hook-It pad. I have no experience with 3M air tools, but I’m going to guess that this is a nice tool. And realistically, it’s not like I’m going to use it every day. It’s less costly than the Dynabrade, at about $150 online. It’s made in Taiwan, and I can’t seem to find reliable reviews of 3M pneumatic random orbitals.

Another option is the Ingersoll-Rand 3128K. It’s significantly cheaper at $108 online, but I have to admit that for detailing purposes, a pistol grip with trigger is crappy compared to the palm switch of the Dynabrade. Not to mention that my recent experiences with Ingersoll-Rand air tools haven’t made me as happy as Dynabrade. They’ve been offshoring many air tools and in some cases the quality has suffered. My 6″ Dynabrade pneumatic random orbital has been unbelievably reliable for 10 years. But then so has my Ingersoll-Rand right-angle die grinder.

I’ll make a decision soon. When I do, I’ll post pictures and impressions.

I’m also going to make a custom holder for the new sander and my 6″ random orbital. It will be similar to the VIM DAHLDR2-RED, but made to handle a 3″ sander and 6″ sander and leave lots of space for a buffing pad without touching anything on the pad. Then I can hang my sander on my detailing cart while I’m detailing without tainting the pad.

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Bondhus 20499 ProHold ball-end hex key set

I’ve long been a fan of Bondhus hex keys. They’re stronger than any I’ve used, without being brittle. And their holders, while not as fancy as others like Wiha or even Wera, hold up very well long-term.

This week I received the Bondhus 20499 ProHold ball-end hex key set from Amazon. This is actually two sets: an inch set from .050″ to 3/8″ and a metric set from 1.5mm to 10mm.

The ProHold screw-holding mechanism on the ball end is a spring-loaded ball similar to that found on a ratchet. You can read more about it here. What I like about the ProHold versus Wiha’s MagicRing: it doesn’t scar the finish on the inside of the fastener head, and in my opinion it does not compromise the strength of the ball tip as much as the MagicRing. Of course I haven’t broken the tip of a ProHold or MagicRing hex driver, so this is speculation on my part.

As a bonus, the Bondhus ProHold are made here in the U.S.A., at least for now. I consider that a reasonable reason to buy them over the Wiha if you’re a U.S. resident.

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How to replace Snap-On Dual80 soft grips

Just a note on how I replace the grips on Snap-On Dual80 soft-grip ratchets…

The key is boiling water. It will not harm the grips or the ratchet. I boil a large pot of water on the stove, and place the new grip in it. I hold the old grip (still on the ratchet) in the boiling water for about 90 seconds. It will expand from the heat. I then pull the old grip off, while wearing mechanic’s gloves for better grip and to avoid being scalded. I pluck the new handle out of the pot of boiling water with tongs, shake the water out of it, then push it onto the ratchet (again wearing mechanic’s gloves). I make sure it’s positioned properly, then allow the ratchet to cool. Voila, a brand new grip! The process takes about 60 seconds, not counting the time for the water to boil.

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Snap-On FHLF80 ratchet

Earlier this week, I received a new Snap-On FHLF80 ratchet. Like all the Snap-On Dual80 ratchets, it’s smooth and slender. It is a 3/8″ drive, long handle, flex-head model with soft grip. I prefer the soft grips due to the arthritis in my right hand.

It comes with a red soft-grip, which I replaced with an orange soft-grip (part number FH936-12O). Here’s a picture of it with the red grip:

And one with the orange grip:

And closeups of the red and orange grips:

One thing to note about the Snap-On soft-grips: the grips are slimmer than Matco soft-grips. This is a blessing and a curse. The Matco are more comfortable to me, but the Snap-On are slightly easier to fit between obstructions in a modern engine compartment. I haven’t taken the grip off of a Matco yet, but I suspect the shaft is thicker under the grip than the Snap-On. While I’d argue that’s good for strength, the reality is that I’ve never bent one of the Snap-On handles and warranty would cover it anyway.

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2002 BMW M roadster: Inspection II

I’m preparing to perform Inspection II on my 2002 BMW M roadster. One of the tasks is the valve clearance check and adjustment. One special tool is needed: BMW 83.30.0.493.743 (formerly 90.88.6.114.400), which I bought. This tool is a magnetic pickup tool for removing and replacing the valve shims which determine valve clearance. Without it, there is some risk of dropping a shim into no-mans land (one of the galleys leading to the crankcase) or into a cylinder if you’re a clumsy fool and also don’t plug the spark plug holes.

Another special tool, BMW 83.30.0.491.056 (formerly 90.88.6.115.100) is needed on some S54 engines, but I don’t think it’s needed on mine. It’s a tool that fits over 4 bolts on the crankshaft vibration damper, used in cooperation with a ratchet to turn the engine. From what I remember, my S54 is new enough that it has the hex nut on the end so I can just use a socket. I’ll know when I look again, but I bought the tool anyway since it’s better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it.

Finally, feeler gauges are needed. I’m not thrilled with the offering from BMW, they don’t offer the granularity I’d like or even the values I’d like without stacking. Hence I ordered some Eastern Industries feeler gauges from threadcheck.com, and have a quote request out for custom gauges in the range of interest: .15mm to .35mm in .01mm increments, 6″ long, with a 90 degree bend about 1″ from the business end.

Then there are the parts. The big expenditure is the valve shim kit, BMW 11.34.0.031.525. List price for this set is $466.46 as of today, but it can be found for about $375 on line. In addition, many gaskets are needed. The valve cover gasket (BMW 11.12.7.832.034, list price $47.27), thirteen of the valve cover nut grommets (BMW 11.12.7.830.972, list price $1.28 each), two valve cover seal washer grommets (BMW 11.12.1.437.395, list price $1.05 each) and six spark plug hole gaskets (BMW 11.12.7.831.271, list price $9.43 each).

I bought all of the parts plus the magnetic shim tool (BMW 83.30.0.493.743) mentioned above in a kit from ECS Tuning for $445.00. That’s a savings of about $180 versus list price.

January 19, 2012
I received the off-the-shelf Eastern Industries feeler gauge sets. Nothing out of the ordinary here, but I’m glad I bought them since my old ones were in pretty rough shape. I now have:

Eastern Industries FG-22-STEP step-ground

Eastern Industries FG-26-4-45 45-degree

Eastern Industries FG-25-3-SS stainless

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Snap-On Instinct Hard Handle stubby screwdrivers: crappy experience

Today I received a pair of Snap-On Instinct Hard Handle screwdrivers directly from Snap-On. That’s models SHD1O and SHDP22IRO. Both are orange. They’re $11.95 each, which is very steep for stubby screwdrivers.

I’m extremely disappointed. In four words: I should’ve bought Wiha.

The drivers arrived packaged very well. They were in a plastic bag, that bag was in a cardboard box, and the box was filled out with packing paper. No damage to the box whatsoever. But the drivers were severely scuffed, with ground-in black crap on the handles. Snap-On knowingly packed abused drivers and sent them to me. If they were $1 each, I probably wouldn’t complain. But they’re $11.95 each.

Worse, the tip on the SHD1O is junk. It looks as if someone smashed the end with a hammer and anvil. The thickness is far from consistent. I wonder if someone ran these drivers over with a forklift before shipping them to me.

To add salt to the wound, the SHD1O is not like what’s shown in pictures on the Snap-On web site. The picture on the web site shows a wide flat-tip blade, which is what I wanted:

I used to think that Snap-On’s quality control was very good. But these drivers didn’t come in a set: they were individually packed by hand, and hence there’s no reasonable excuse for shipping them to me. Now I get to waste my time having it corrected. And given the low quality of the handles even if they were pristine, I don’t want replacements. I want a refund so I can spend the money on Wiha 311 Series drivers.

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Reflecting on 20 years of craftsmanship

This year marked my 20th year as a professional software developer. The anniversary transpired without hoopla.

I’m going to talk about the subject of craftsmanship in general. Why?

Some of us strive to be very good at what we do. It’s my definition of craftsman. Regardless of what anyone else thinks about my work, I find it far and away much more critical to be able to look at my work years later and know that I performed it to the best of my ability. I hold my humility very dear; the lack of it is in direct conflict with the pursuit of knowledge and skill.

Wield a hammer and chisel, a paintbrush, wrenches, a pen, a chef’s knife, a chainsaw or a keyboard (or all of the above)… what’s worth doing is worth learning to do right. That doesn’t mean “It’ll never be finished”, it means “I will do my best, I will make mistakes and learn from them, I will be patient and persistent.”

In 2010 I discovered The Garage Journal, a wonderful forum. It has made me consider my collection of tools in every category… mechanical, woodworking, electrical/electronic, software, kitchen appliances… the things that enable a craftsman or craftswoman to work more productively, to take their work to the next level, to stand on the shoulders of those that preceded us. “What’s in your toolbox?” is a fascinating question to me that can lead in many directions and a long conversation. “What have you created, improved, modified or repaired with the tools at hand?” is an even better question.

I happen to be reflecting on the tools recently because I’m migrating my source code repository and it’s interesting to see what has collected in my software toolbox. The analogies to mechanical tools abound. There are the favorites we’ve used countless times; well-worn and intimate. On the software front, that would be C++ for me, in no small part because it’s a language that can cover a LOT of ground (from embedded to large desktop GUI applications to huge distributed systems). While I write C in automotive embedded environments professionally right now, I continue to write software for my desktop (FreeBSD), my servers (FreeBSD), my laptop (OS X), my iPhone, small embedded devices for home, etc. This means I’ve spent a reasonable amount of time using C, php, perl, javascript, flex, bison, objective-C, java, shell scripts… the list is long. On my web server alone, there’s a good chunk of my own code using php, C++ and javascript. My desktop… more than I care to admit.

Then there are the tools we’ve created ourselves. For a mechanic, it could be as simple as a custom cheater bar or a cut-up wrench to get to that waterpump fastener that seems near impossible to reach. For a woodworker it might be the bench you built. For a software developer, it might be the libraries you authored and use regularly (in my case, libDwm would be a good example).

Some tools find their way into our box out of curiosity, fascination, or just shininess, only to find their way to the bottom of a drawer to collect dust indefinitely. Others save our butt for one task, never to be used again.

Of course, let’s not forget the tools we lust after. For myself… I’d like a new Apple desktop computer, a new 4-channel oscilloscope, a 2-post car lift, a cabinet-grade table saw…

However, a true craftsman gets by with the tools at his disposal. And here’s where software is different than many other crafts; many of the tools are available with only a time investment, not a monetary investment. Download open source, spend some time learning to use it, and produce new software. There’s an up-front cost for the hardware to host the software, but beyond that it’s a wide open world for nearly free. If writing software for personal use, there is no monetary penalty for mistakes. It’s just time (which is worth more than money, but that’s not my point… my point is that the barrier to entry is low). In the embedded software world, if you choose your platform carefully, you can accomplish quite a bit with a small monetary investment. If you’re familiar with electronics, you can design your own circuit boards (and have them fabricated) at a fairly reasonable cost.

Interestingly, some of the “I can see and touch” stuff is also becoming easier for the single designer and craftsman to create. Sites like emachineshop.com allow us mere dabblers to design physical objects and have them machined or otherwise fabricated at a reasonable cost with convenience we could only dream about 20 years ago. And software is at the center of it, from Web servers to CAD software to procurement and logistics systems to the software running on the CNC machines. It begs the question: where would be be if computers and software had never been invented?

When it comes to producing things at home, we’ve also forged ahead rapidly. While I bemoan the fact that a considerable amount of tool manufacturing has moved overseas, the flip side is that many tools are now within the reach of the average consumer and it’s not difficult to choose the ones that meet your quality/price ratio.  Reviews are fairly easy to find inline, as are tool and craftsman-related forums in nearly every category of interest: general, mechanical, woodworking, metalworking, machining, welding, finishing, electronics, software… you name it.

My hat’s off to everyone involved in making it easier for those craftspersons among us to convert what’s in our heads to something the rest of the world can see, hear, touch or use.

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Wiha heavy duty MicroFinish screwdrivers

In the last few weeks I received some Wiha 533 Series and 534 Series heavy-duty MicroFinish screwdrivers. They were marked down 50% at wihatools.com and carbideprocessors.com.

I like them. They’re definitely heavy duty; they’re the heaviest screwdrivers I own, and much of the weight is in the handle. That’s because they’re designed to be able to accept blows from a hammer; the blades are through-handle with a heavy cap on the end of the handle.

Wiha 534 Series
Wiha 533 Series